Hi guys, we have been in the Kimberleys for the past 6 weeks cruising the Coast line and outlaying islands we have seen and done so much which we would love to share with you however I shall condense this email for you, as we are sure you don’t have a spare 6 weeks to read it. Here Goes:
A whole lot of Magic: 4th August 2004 to 13th September 04
The sails are set and the mighty “Magic” crew are ready for the high seas once again, after a very busy 2 weeks in Broome (Broome time that is!). The whales are plentiful and so are the pearl farms, ducking and weaving we make our way to Cape Leveque, via Coulomb Point, Beagle Bay – where the Captain landed a 3kg Golden Trevally the 1st fish we had had in weeks yummo! The night was full of romance filled with sounds of turtles gasping for air and dugongs snorting, very tranquil! Then of to Thomas Bay, what a day trip that was, we were doing what all competent sailors do, head down heavily involved in our latest novels, when suddenly we hear the loudest whoosh ever, a whale was trying to read over my shoulder, actually I think she was reading it to her calf, they were so close, what a fright we all got. Then we arrived at Cape Laveque where there is a caravan park and a very upmarket Tent Land, they are build up on timber poles throughout the bush standing about 12 feet in the air, to enable them to have a perfect view of the surrounding oceans and bushland – not quite the same as good old Rotto. Our anchorage was very rollie not a lot of sleep was had, the crew were very eager to be off to Coppermine Creek, now that was an island, The Wench gave Ganghook a hair cut on the beach with one eye on his ear and the other on the surrounding (not to be seen) crocks. Then a mammoth walk up to the top of the mountain, fighting our way threw trees and bushland, the wench kept a visual our for snakes, pirates, and numerous other terrifying creatures, all the while hanging on for dear life to the pants of her Brave Captain, the Wench does Not Do Bush! We moved on to Crocodile Creek for a couple of days layover the scenery was magnificent we frolicked under the waterfall and played in the pools the fresh water was pure heaven .. We met up with Forte, Scuttlebug and a new boat on the block, Taipan we all indulged in wine and food and got tell tales of our adventures, then made our way down to Silver Gull (Squatters Arms) where Phil and Marian are the resident squatters, they set up camp in Silver Gull some 8 years. More fresh water was available, a huge water tank called “The Snake Pit” 2000 Lts of water passes through every our, we managed to cram 12 adults and 2 kids in, drinking and telling all sorts of tales it was great, we spent 2 days there getting very water logged then moved onto Raft Point, there are some wonderful Aboriginal paintings up in the caves, there is a well worn track to make the discovery much easier. From Raft Point we moved on to the Prince Regent River via, Hope Point, Sampson Inlet, and Denis Bay , the fishing had dropped of only sharks were feeding so fishing was abandoned and Roast Beef was on the menu. We spent almost a week exploring the delights of the River system once again the scenery was fantastic we came upon a little oasis of Pandanus Palm way up the top of a hill with a view to be shared as we have tried to do via our postcards. From Prince Regent River we sailed to Biggie Island, Jarr Island where there were some excellent Bradshaw Paintings then on to Freshwater Bay, and so on we sailed to more glorious uninhabited islands until we came to the highlight of the Kimberleys. The King George River, the water was fast the falls were plentiful cascading down the steep rock faces what a beautiful sight, we nosed Magic right up to the falls then pulled back and anchored about 400 mts away, launched “A little Magic” (newly named dingy) into the water and headed for the falls, we held her under the falls and filled her up to the brim, washing our cloths our body’s and her, we were like a couple of kids squealing with delight the water was so cold and so fresh absolute bliss. Then we took another trip to the falls and refilled the dingy to return back to Magic and fill her water tanks and give our beloved Magic a much needed freshwater bath. Our next mission was to climb up to the top of the falls, something that looked rather out of my league, being scared of heights and all, the Captain urged on the wench, foot by foot until we were at the top 50mtrs up. Breathlessly we looked down and out what a view Magic anchored in the middle of the Basin only the sounds of the wild could be heard. The pools above the falls were so cool and inviting we soaped up shampooed and frolicked about for the afternoon, enjoyed our chicken sandwiches and beers until the sun began to fall then made our way down to the rivers edge. We moved further along the river to anchor for the night and were mesmerised by the illumination of the water, we watched for hours, and yes we were seeing things feasting on wine and BBQ fish, the river was alight with phosphoresce moving up the river to the falls, something like the night sky had fallen and all the stars were in the river twinkling and dancing to the sound of night birds. That was a truly magical night.
After King George River we headed for the Berkley River – as the story goes this is the peace de résistance of the Kimberley’s. We were not disappointed the water was so blue and clear, the beaches were as white as snow and the falls were gently flowing showers, with a fresh water stream meandering amidst pools filled with water lilies and small fish, feeding the falls. We swam for the 1st time in months lazed around on the well washed rocks and showered under the falls. Then to our astonishment discovered we were covered in what at first we thought were leaches, oooowww!!!! We managed to relieve ourselves of our new crawly friends and made our way back on board to magic after a long walk on the beach arms laden with shells and two very tired little sailors. Our next adventure was one we would choose not to replay, Picture this “ Two little lone sailors winding down a narrow muddy creek the wench on the bow keeping a watchful eye on the wild life, when we came upon a rock ledge 3mts high with a very large croc basking in the sun, the wench want to see more but fear keeps them away, the captain moves cautiously threw the water all eyes peeled, the coast is clear or is it? The crew make there way to the end of the creek, not much to see here so a retreat is underway to the safety of Magic, when out of the blue the very large croc on the rock sees us and make a very fast very ungraceful plunge into the water, the captain pulls on the throttle, the wench is firmly planted in the middle of “a little magic” and they are heading for the hills all caution to the wind, the creek is abound with rocks and tree logs, missed by inches on the way up stream, only the crew are now racing from danger BANG! BANG! Bang! a rock is hit the steering is lost the motor slows, the croc is still in pursuit a squeal from the wench a #@%!# from the captain and the crew are under control and back on track for the mother ship, these little sailors were not on the menu for old man croc today.
4am an early start with Darwin in our sights, the captain and his wench are now laying bets for Pints of Guinness civilization is only days away. After 3 days of slight to little wind the crew arrive in Darwin, The Cullen Bay Marina, of all the sights we have experienced over the past 6 weeks the most welcoming was 2 ice cold Pints of G and a basket of Hot Crispy Wedges. Now that’s Magic!
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