Tuesday, December 10, 2013
Ahoy from Van Diemen's Land
A brief swim with the local Whale Sharks in Cebu.
Sadly the time has come for Ganghook and Wench to return to the promised land. We are winding in our sails and putting down the anchor in Davao for the final time in cruising life.
A tuff call many tears and sleepless nights have been had and many more will come of that we are sure. But alas the treasure chest is full and our wonderings are over. More Magic is now looking for a new owner, one who will take her off on many more adventures.
More Magic shall stay at Ocean View Marina on Samal Island in Davao, Mindanao until she is sold, the captain will return to her for a little one on one and to facilitate her sale or possibly a sail. The Wench well she is in mourning for a lost life, a lost son and a freedom she know longer has.
We are planning on settling in WA, for the time being, but who really know's what the future has in store for us. Perhaps this may all be too much and paying for haircuts will not satisfy our wondering spirits we shall just have see.
October 2013
We came we saw and moved on. Days pass as miles roll away, More Magic is now at home in Cebu with her proud new owner. Ganghook and the Wench have returned to their homeland.
This time to travel our great continent by road, from Perth to Hobart and all land falls in between.
The distant memory of the sound of water under our keel leaves us feeling warm and complete. For we are ready to take on the Hobartians and all they have to offer.
Bring it on Tassie! Ganghook and the Wench are here.
Tuesday, October 9, 2012
Message in a Bottle #15 - The End of a Dream
Oh for the cruising life.!
By now you will know that cruising is not only a sense of where we sail to, but a state of mind, space and time.
Yup we did set off to Talaud, with a flourish of farewells, bands playing, media snapping and onlookers cheering and clapping.
The cruisers where dancing and sailing to the crowd, we all enjoyed our 5 mins of fame, Hey we even made it to the front page of the Davao Newspaper, More Magic in all her splendor with two very happy and excited crew.
Indeed very proud owners, this sail was to be Ganghook and the Wench's swan song on More Magic. It is with much sadness and sorrow we have decided it's time to get hair cuts and real jobs! Sad days ahead, but full of anticipation for the next adventure.
Oh where were we?
Yes that's right in the Davao Gulf, the waters sparkling beneath our keel, the sky powder blue overhead,
Samal Island fringed with white sands and coconut trees, what a tropical paradise, fishermen in small canoes cast there nets in anticipation of a bountiful feed of seafood. A truly magical day.
Enough already I am sure you are all green with envy and not sea sickness by now.
So on with the journey, we sailed the afternoon in calm waters and cooling breezes, feet up, books in hand. Not a fish to be caught although we did pass plenty of fish attracting devices. I think they are there to give one hope.!!!!Arrrrr I we live in hope. Eight hours down, a calm bay we decided to drop anchor for the night and open a nice bottle of Red to accompany the steak and stary night.
Just Beautiful.
Up early to rise and off we go, an overnight sail ahead of us, it's been a long time but we are good to go.
Nice early breeze 10-15 knots filling the sails,
as they say "Oh what a feeling"
but ah ha, wait 5 mins, the breeze is up to 15-20 knots, oh and wait there's more, 20-25 knots and the seas are building,
the Captain is in his element,
More Magic is dancing in the waves,
the Wench, well she declares "Galley Closed". Brace yer cutlass and prepare yer timbers t'shiver.
Fishing lines are inboard , safety gear is on,
down to the business of real sailing, we reef once,
we reef twice, and still racing along at 7-8 knots, this girl is flying, white water is scrubbing the decks, blue water is sloothing past the hull, And the smile on Ganghooks face is priceless. "Yarrrgh , this is our ticket home me little mateys"
It's definitely an adventurers day out on the water.
Night falls, not a big moon, so the phosphorescence's are alive and glowing in the wake of More Magic.
A hearty meal is heated up, minimum time in the galley, and night watches start. Watching was the best option, as sleep evaded, the feel of the water rushing past, the sound of the wind in the rigging and the heel,
and I'm not talking about my shoes here! was less than desired for a sleepy Wench.
As daybreak came so did the smiles, hot coffee and calm waters behind the shelter of Talaud Island.
Yes we were once again in for a beautiful days sail with 60nm to go to our chosen anchorage for a couple of nights and partake in the hospitality promised by the Indonesians.
We were not disappointed, after a comfortable night anchored in 20mts of sand off a small village, we were greeted by the Indonesian authorities, formalities carried out with smiles and laughter all around, we were even blessed to be visited by a couple of children dressed in official immigration uniforms. Such is the people!!!
A beach party BBQ lunch was arranged for us at a close by island, there was dancing and singing, eating and chatting, frolicking in the cool clear waters of Little Sara Island. It would appear the Indonesians are very adaptable, we were entertained by the Quarantine Officer, giving his rendition of Roy Orbison and many other heart wrenching songs, peppered with traditional songs and musicians playing hand made string instruments we were mobbed by children wanting to have their photos taken with us, and by us. We fell into bed with faces aching from laughter and smiles.
Time to set sail once again bound for Morotai, the sea state not so good, the wind not so calm, but a sailing we shall go!
30 mins from the anchorage we were engulfed by the big unsettled seas, More Magic lay over and sails to perfection, Captain winching and winding, Wench whining and whingeing, a quick retreat was made to keep the galley open and we aborted the sail to Morotai and headed back to Davao.
Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do, not too often have we turned away from a challenge, but if the cooks not happy, !!!!!!!!
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Message in a Bottle # 14
July 17 2012.
Where is More Magic been and what has she seen! Just look to your right!
Seas were fair and winds were light as Ganghook stealthily navigated his way into unfamiliar waters off the west coast of Palawan and beyond. Our first ports of call were poor coastal fishing villages often inhabited by less than 100 people with limited schools and infrastructure? Imelda and her mate, Ferdinand had long ago done away with any bullion that may have been used to better the conditions for the locals.
Nevertheless, the people were welcoming, honest and generous with what little they had. All the way up the west coast of Palawan we received gen
Further north we were seduced by the fabulous corals of El Nido and the limestone casts of the area as well as the yummy smells from the local bakery. (Not to mention the gorgeous Bronzed Philipino Boys. The Wench was in heaven, the Captain be afraid, very afraid!)
Just to the north east we
At the scene of one of the WW2 sea battles south of Busuanga Island we dived on several wrecks which were a poignant reminder of the lost lives of past conflicts. Conversely, at a small resort in Conception Bay we relaxed and swam in the warm waters enjoying the sight and sounds of local dolphins and turtles.
The diving Mecca of Apo reef was calling and after an interesting sail to the east we all did our first “wall dive”. From a depth of four metres the reef drops away to 100 metres in an almost vertical wall. Hammerhead, white and black tipped reef sharks, Manta rays, turtles and thousands of fish abound. Wow what a dive.
As the northerly trade winds have developed its time to head south towards Puerto Princessa to clear out and head for Borneo Malaysia once more.
We day sailed south and were rewarded with a variety of pelagic fish mostly Spanish mackerel, enough for us and sometimes enough for the locals as well.
In March we left MM and flew to Laos for two weeks to experience the festivities marked by the end of the dry season and to

visit Luang Prabang, Vientiane and the mysterious Plain of Jars.During the last stages of the Vietnam conflict the Plain of Jars was subjected to continuous bombing by the US and a reputed 3 million tonnes of ordinance was dropped during a 5 year period. Ironically, many of the younger Laos have made enough money from collecting scrap steel since the end of the conflict to pay for their education including tourism guiding and many other benefits. During this time the Australian Government has also been involved in clearing unexploded bombs from many populated areas.
Both Luang Prabang and Vientiane offer interesting insights into the history of the former French colony. Many French eating houses exist in both cities and offer a range of cuisines and wines not seen in other parts of Asia we have been to. We enjoyed beef steak and goo
d quality French wine for about AU$20/bottle at most places.After returning to Borneo in April we were joined by like minded Pirates from the South Australian co
After leaving Miri we sailed south to visit the longhouses of our Iban friends on the Mupong River. The Mupong is a remote
Kuching the capital of Sarawak, is host city for the world famous Rainforest Music Festival. Three days of local and international music and workshops held at the Santubong Cultural Village and performed by renowned musos is a memorable event not to be missed if you are heading for Borneo around Jul
In late July we participated in the Borneo International Yachting Challenge a series of races from Miri in Sarawak to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah. A total distance of 180 nautical miles, the races are held in stages and are good fun. We were blessed with a visit from one of our old sea dog, John Dear of tractor fame, who came to help us with the beer,bow and male bonding . (Drinking it that is. )The Sailing was good too.
After the race we headed north east to round the Tip of Borneo and then south east to Sandakan the home of Agnes Keith the author of Land Below The Wind, the most famous book about Sabah and the British North Borneo Company published in the late 30’s.
Our Sandakan visit coincided with the 65th Anniversary of th
In September More Magic became home for Hilly & Steve from Perth for a week we did some further exploring of the State of Sabah and visited the Kundasan War Memorial at Ranau, which was built in the early 50’s but fell into disrepair and was resurrected by a local who has spent the last 10 years building, maintaining and renovation the fences and gardens.

Sandakan is one of the few places in Borneo where Orang Utans can be viewed in the wild. We crossed the bar of the Kinabatangan River and motored
upstream for a few days till we reached the village of Sukau. Here we explored the river its tributaries and oxbow lakes by dinghy for a week. We were rewarded by seeing all manner of local animals, including
As the diving season was coming to a close we decided to continue south east for the Sulu Sea and Sipidan and Marbul Islands.
We spent 10 days diving in this magnificent area and saw heaps of sharks and turtles. Sipidan Island is a wall dive and presented us with fantastic variety of fish and marine life. Following this dive adventure we day sailed slowly back towards Kudat to do our annual haul out and anti foul.
So as you can see Captain Ganghook, The Buxom Wench and various rogues ha
We shall be Feasting in Brunei for Christmas then returning to Miri where we shall start 2011 off with a bang and a much awaited visit from Daniel Number One Son.
Hope to see and hear from you in the coming year.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Message in a Bottle # 13
4th September 2009
On the top of a mountain in the wild jungle of Borneo the Gallant Captain Ganghook sits and looks down over the low valleys and deep river where More Magic lays peacefully at anchor with the Buxom Wench aboard preparing a feast for his return.
Ganghook has had a very prosperous few months, since leaving the crystal clear waters of Tioman Island the crew have ventured up the spice rich coast of East Malaysia, devouring all that dare to come before them, not an island has been left untouched, Ganghook and his Wench have left their mark, as far north as The Perenthian Islands where the back packers are fierce and the music is booming, to Terengganu where all the Mosques are tiled with the most exotic jewels and reflect the sun for as far as the eye can see.
Ah but the sea is not enough for the adventurous crew of More Magic, they must see more, learn more, Trains, planes and buses await, for there is more than one way to conquer the vast lands of Asia.
Ganghook, the Wench & the trusty ships Rat “Cheese” take to the skies. From Terengganu to Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok then a over night train trip (and oh what a train trip, perhaps the Wench is better suited to the high seas or perhaps a crate of Rum would help ease the journey!) to Chiang Mai, in Northern Thailand home of the Asian Elephant, now most loved animal of the Wench, “Oh Captain, every ship needs an Elephant” she proclaims after spending a most exciting day playing in the rivers with these wondrously genteel animals. “Nay” the Captain replays “with all the shoes and handbags, there is not room at the inn for such a beast a rat shall be your lot” http://www.elephantnaturepark.org .
5 days and 5 nights are enjoyed plundering the back streets and alley ways of Chiang Mai, food and fabric galore; not to mention the hundreds of WATS,” What is a Wat you may well ask?” Temples, Wats and Pagoda’s they are all the same just a different language, Yes it is true, Thailand is abundant with these glistening gold leaf monuments. Oh the Wench is in heaven, market upon market, alas though it is the Captain who buys the shoes, (Tis a plot to keep the elephant off the ship!!!!).
From Chiang Mai on to Chiangrai they relax in style on Malaysia’s Deluxe Coach lines, take in the Magic sites of rice paddies and tranquil beauty that Northern Thailand is famous for.
From Chiangrai a car is hired to drive through the steep climbing mountain roads to Maisalong, home of the Hill tribe people, and the beginning of the Golden Triangle, there is no evidence of opium grown here now days, Tea and tourism has taken its place. A night is spent in the fresh mountain air overlooking the Burmese border before the traveler’s head off once again back down the slopes towards Chiangrai.
Chiangrai is the site of the most Magnificent Wat Rong Khun www.watrongkhun.com a feast for the eyes of all who see.
The brave captain & crew journeyed along on the local bus, now how many Thais can you fit on a bus, I think we finally found the answer, on boxes and floors 5 to a 2 person seat this was a real up close and personal trip, never the less the fearless crew rose to the challenge and disembarked in the planned location with just a few minor knocks and bumps.
Another highlight in Chiangrai is the Town Clock Tower, created by the same artist as the Wat Rong Khun) twice each night there is a cacophony of color and sound, changing from yellow to red to purple, the whole show lasts around 10mins and the traffic is still going around the roundabout, business as usual whilst we brave sailors capture the show on our cameras.
Alas it is well known that a pirate’s life is unpredictable and these pirates must cut the trip short and rush back to the good ship, then on to home lands as there are attempts of plundering happening on the home shores. Ganghook’s treasures must be protected at all costs.
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Message in a Bottle # 12
Pirates held Captive in Malaysia
Will Gang hook and The Buxom Wench survive the Malaysian gallows????????
“Nay” screamed the Head of Immigration and Malaysian law,
"throw them to the sharks. We have been searching for these pirates for 24 moons or more, now we have them in our grasp, we shall throw them in the dungeons and chuck away the key."
Thirty days of hard labor and toil, 30 nights of drunken debauchery,” work hard, play harder” says the tireless captain; “we shall take all we can from this
A 90 day holiday in is granted. The Captain has declared; No plundering, No pirating, for even the hardiest of pirates tire. Oh what joy; oh what fun the lusty wench sighs," we shall shop, we shall dine in the finest restaurants Malaysia has to offer, we shall explore the inland sights." Breathlessly she prepares for unknown adventures.
Ten days of idyllic cruising the exotic islands around Langkawi, crystal clear waters, white sandy beaches. A life of Riley. Simple pleasures of frozen Margarita’s at sunset, seafood delicacies on the shore and lazy mornings in the sun. Ah but enough of this! Malaysia has more to offer, a shopping spree is next on the holiday hit list and so Penang is the next port of call.
Unbeknown to all, the captain has developed a shoe fetish, or has he grown more feet? His foot locker has expanded with;
- four more pairs of shoes,
- eight check shirts,
- three pairs of shorts,
- two new hats
- and a nice new handbag for me!
So what can a girl do, with a new handbag, one needs to accessorizes so accessorize she does. Shop till you drop is the chant, Save on the bargains. Live for now and pay tomorrow. Oh we just love those little plastic thingies!
Now the business part of the holiday is done and dusted a bit of back to nature is required by the Captain. He has decided that he is going to treat his beauty to one of the natural wonders of the world. Taman Negara, the first and largest national park Malaysia has to offer. A show case of nature, a step back in time, fourteen fun filled nights listening to the sounds of silence!
His dream! Her nightmare! The Wench still doesn’t do bush. Trekking through the jungle, a watchful eye out for tigers, another for elephants, and yet another eye out for snakes. So many eyes a girl needs. The trekkers hear stories of the great white tiger, and the small but dangerous Malaysian jungle elephants. But alas; they have seen none.
Not is all lost in the captain’s mind. There are mountains to be climbed, snakes to be photographed and leaches galore. He is in his element. "Yet another element, the wench" adds ruefully. The Buxom Wench has been reduced to a disheveled wreck. Weak from a lack of blood, caused by the excessive thirst of the leaches, which together with the bite of the mosquito take their wretched toll? The two intrepid travelers must climb to the high grounds to escape the blood thirsty locals.
Finally, exhausted and weary, with pillows, wheelie backpacks, books and bandages the holiday makers board the bus headed for The Cameron Highlands, the Steam boat capital of Malaysia. Once at Fathers Guest house R&R is the order of the stay. A few gentle walks around the town, Tea for Two, (This is Tea growing country) bellies full of fresh F&V, back on track the two are ready to return to the good ship More Magic. Once more on board, the crew becomes restless and the call of the sea beckons. Crates of Rum and the finest wine are loaded. Ganghook and the Wench dressed to kill, approach the authorities. Ah, but alak and alas, the two are held captive by the Malaysian Immigration officers, for they have overstayed their welcome. Three months is apparently three days more than the 90 days granted.
Oh what a blunder!!!!!
For 6 torturous hot hours they are held in detention, subjected to ancient forms of interrogation, and finally forced to surrender their passports. All is not well, the ship lays at anchor the faithful crew on board waiting for their Captain and Wench to return, this can’t be happening, this just can’t happen!
The Handsome Captain and his beauty devise a plan, bribery and corruption is not dead,nothing and no-one can keep the Captain at bay for long.Finally, with papers and passports in order a hasty getaway is made and they leave Malaysian waters.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
A Captain, A Birthday and a Wild Wild Ride

Message in a Bottle
June 2008
A Captain, A Birthday and a Wild Ride
Now that More Magic is in safe harbor at Boat Lagoon Phuket the story must be told of her Maiden Voyage under her new name. This adventure is not for the weak or the faint hearted, so prepare yourself for the rough ride, there’s lotsa water coming your way!
Sunday 22nd June 2008
The time has come to leave the fair shores of Langkawi. The Handsome Captain Ganghook has made a vow he will have his heroin The Buxom Wench on the tropical paradise
“But we have no ships papers!” The Wench cries. A forging she shall go. Begged, borrowed and scanned papers are expertly photo shopped (don’t you just love modern technology). Sleepless nights haunt the Wench – A fear for Thai prison invades her breathless dreams. The day has arrived. A sailing they must go.
More Magic is named; a mythical naked dance around the mast is performed by Captain & crew. The ship must leave the shores
Then miraculously the Bonified ships papers are emailed from
All is well, and all is ready with only 5 days to go before the Wench’s Birthday.
“Hoist the main sail, throw the lines, Phuket or bust!!!!!!!” Is Ganghook’s cry.
A slight breeze and a five nautical mile sedate sail to
More Magic rounds the heads and prepares to drop the anchor. OH NO the slight breeze has built 25knotts and gusting, the
The halyard is dropped, the sail falls to the deck, the anchor is lowered, phew! As More Magic swings and jerks this way and that. Not Happy Jan!
A radio call to the marina office is made and a temporary berth is granted. The crew looking very smart in their newly embroidered official uniforms completes the formalities, and then prepares to throw the lines once again, in the pouring rain. Maybe there is a sign out there!!!
The rain slows, the breeze has calmed and the seas are slight. Oh we are sailing,(reminds me of a song) this is the life. 7.30pm sees More Magic is anchored of the picturesque
Hopes are high for a good days fishing, but alas the weather has other plans. A condition of fishing is,( No fishing to windward), and a windward we are going. The seas are rising, the skies are black and the rain is falling, (maybe should have stayed in bed this day). For 42 miles the wet soggy crew beat their way through the torrential rain, being blown this way and that. The winds come from all directions, 25knotts, then 50knts, back to 10 knot’s. What to do. The weary crew finally set the anchor off the small
Meanwhile the Wench mans the helm and expertly steers her beloved MM onto the mooring. Securely moored, the crew enjoy a hot shower and a steaming bowl of hearty soup. They sleep fitfully, ever on alert; the Wench is well past the sleepless nights and dreams of the security of being a Marina Baby. The crew are up early, ready to take what ever the day has on offer for there last leg of the journey to Phuket. “Just get me there!!!!” demands the irate Wench. And the rest of the journey is history, As they say in all good story books.
For these are the mysterious waters where pirate movies are made and Bond loves to play!!!! (James that is- Shaken not stired)))))).
Thursday, January 17, 2008
More Magic & The year of the Rat
Magics beam bursting with loot the time has come to up size to a larger galleon. The search began!
Magics treasures were off loaded to a secret location buried deep in the caves of an island paradise of Langkawi.Ganghook travels far & wide in search of the perfect vessel to continue the journey with Cheese, (the ships rat) by his side. He scourers the net, word has it New Zealand is the place a large vessel worthy of the Magic crew is there, but alas, this is not so, the Wench, Ganghook and Cheese search the shores of Phuket where many a fine pirate ship lay in waiting to be plundered and taken, still non can match the Wenches needs. The Captain roams the lands, back to Australia, then to Hong Kong, 'Singapore, Penang. Mean while the Wench with her companion Lulu return to the secret location to watch over the hidden treasures of Magic. Ganghook sends word he has found a worthy sailing ship, an excited crew prepare a take over and make ready for Hong Kong, but NO WAIT! another potential ship has been found in Singapore, the Captain and his loyal friend Captain Terry take to the air, this is "The One" the Wench hears, both Captains are delighted she is a fine ship, so yet again a take over is planned. A Singapore we shall go. AH Pirates can not be trusted, the Singapore Sting is taken from under our watchful eye, o Deal. Back to Hong Kong we will go.
With bags packed a divided crew, consisting of Ganghook, The Wench, Lulu, Cheese and Ted the anxious party wing their way with hope of a new bed for Christmas. On inspection the crew are pleased. A large Captains quarters, raised saloon, big galley, spacious cockpit and room for stowaways.Complete with in mast furling. A haul out and test sail, the deal is done "More Magic" is born.
A 7 year old 2 cabin Jeaneau 43 Deck saloon, She's a little beauty!!!!!
For most of December the crew worked hard preparing "More Magic" who had laid dormant for most of her short seven years in Hong Kong. Much preparation was to be done. Dim Sum , sights to be seen treasures and spices for the taking.
January 2008 is here, Year of the Rat and More Magic is ready. 5th of January, the sails are set, ropes are cast fair winds are predicted and Hong Kong - Sai Kung disappears into the distance smog haze behind the setting sun.
For 2 days and 2 nights both crew and ship perform admirably, with wind in our sails food in our belly's, hopes and dreams for the New Year what could be better. Singapore here we come, 1350 nm the crews longest passage to date.
Day 3 the wind drops, the Wench is taken with the plague - Sea Sickness that is, oh No, - NO Wind No Wench, 2 more days this continues, a slow progress. Day 5 shows promise, clouds in the sky. Yes wind we all say, but alas only a zeffer. With such an impressive sailing ship on the waters we are payed visits by several ships, some fishing boats,
Some Super tankers,up close & personal. These large vessels stealthy move threw the night, fear factor is high, the South China Sea, No plundering is planned for these high waters. Singapore is our One stop Shop till you drop. Bring it on.
Day 4 (night watch) Ganghook is blissfully watching a black monster powering thru the water at 20+knots for about 10 minutes before he realised that, no it was not going to change course for a yacht on PORT tack. Bugger. Poled out heady and all, the good captain steered us onto a parallel course and at the same time she sounded her hooter. Have you heard a ships hooter close up? No good!
The Wench emerges from her slumber to the mighty sound of screeching engines, hooters kitted in life jacket with the grab bag, a first aid book and water bottle. She took some calming before descending to the bowels of our pride and joy once more.
Won't do that again. We found out that Chinese skippers like to skip in front of your vessel to wash off their nasty spirits. It doesn't matter that your vessel is only 40 feet long and weighs 9 tonnes and theirs is 1000 feet long and weights, well who knows.
From then on the code of the sea was adopted calls of Port to Port used.
None acknowledged the message just turned to starboard to show us their red light, among the myriad of others displayed on their black hulls.
A few managed to almost ignore us completely and that was when the Wench pulled out her secret weapon. The 50 watt deck light flashed on and off a few times, together with lots of yelling and waving the dolphin torch about. That worked a few times but sometimes we had to change course to avoid being run down by one of these monsters.
So there was no snoozing on deck on More Magic this time.
Where do these giants go? During the day we hardly saw any boats. One here and there on the horizon. Occasionally we would be jolted alert by a close encounter with a wave maker.
After 12 days at sea we finally decided that most of the really big ships waited just over the horizon during the day lulling us in to a false sense of security. Not many about today the Captain would comment, only to find that there were dozens bearing down on us after dark.
Day 7, January 11th 2008, still no wind, Captain and crew are now rationing, fuel,water and fresh produce is low. A 9 day passage was hoped for a 14 day planned for, We shall see!
January 14, 380 nm to go and wind at last this is our ticket home, the wench tethered in the cockpit the swell rising and the sound of wind and water oh the noise, where is Ganghook when you need him. Ah the captain he resides in the Master cabin keeping a close eye on Lulu and dreaming of plundering the shores of Singapore.
January 17th 2008 the call of land ahoy, Singapore is hidden behind the thousands of anchored tankers, The crew are weary but elated and dreaming of Fish, Chips and a pint of Guiness, but first stop - Bed.
Then the next adventure will begin.
