Ahoy from Van Diemen's Land

                              A brief swim with the local Whale Sharks in Cebu.


Sadly the time has come for Ganghook and Wench  to return to the promised  land.  We are winding in our sails and putting down the anchor in Davao for the final time in cruising life.
A tuff call many tears and sleepless nights have been had and many more will come of that we are sure. But alas the treasure chest is full and our wonderings are over. More Magic is now looking for a new owner, one who will take her off on many more adventures.
More Magic shall stay at Ocean View Marina on Samal Island in Davao, Mindanao until she is sold, the captain will return to her for a little one on one and to facilitate her sale or possibly a sail. The Wench well she is in mourning for a lost life, a lost son and a freedom she know longer has.

We are planning on settling in WA, for the time being, but who really know's what the future has in store for us. Perhaps this may all be too much and paying for haircuts will not satisfy our wondering spirits we shall just have see.


October 2013


We came we saw and moved on. Days pass as miles roll away, More Magic is now at home in Cebu with her proud new owner. Ganghook and the Wench have returned to their homeland.
This time to travel our great continent by road, from Perth to Hobart and all land falls in between.

The distant memory of the sound of water under our keel leaves us feeling warm and complete. For we are ready to take on the Hobartians and all they have to offer.

Bring it on Tassie! Ganghook and the Wench are here.

Message in a Bottle #15 - The End of a Dream

8th October 2012

Oh for the cruising life.!
By now you will know that cruising is not only a sense of where we sail to, but a state of mind, space and time.
Yup we did set off to Talaud, with a flourish of farewells, bands playing, media snapping and onlookers cheering and clapping.

The cruisers where dancing and sailing to the crowd, we all enjoyed our 5 mins of fame, Hey we even made it to the front page of the Davao Newspaper, More Magic in all her splendor with two very happy and excited crew.
Indeed very proud owners, this sail was to be Ganghook and the Wench's swan song on More Magic.  It is with much sadness and sorrow we have decided it's time to get hair cuts and real jobs! Sad days ahead, but full of anticipation for the next adventure.

Oh where were we?
Yes that's right in the Davao Gulf, the waters sparkling beneath our keel, the sky powder blue overhead,
Samal Island fringed with white sands and coconut trees, what a tropical paradise, fishermen in small canoes cast there nets in anticipation of a bountiful feed of seafood. A truly magical day.

Enough already I am sure you are all green with envy and not sea sickness by now.

So on with the journey, we sailed the afternoon in calm waters and cooling breezes, feet up, books in hand. Not a fish to be caught although we did pass plenty of fish attracting devices. I think they are there to give one hope.!!!!Arrrrr I we live in hope. Eight hours down, a calm bay we decided to drop anchor for the night and open a nice bottle of Red to accompany the steak and stary night.

Just Beautiful.

Up early to rise and off we go, an overnight sail ahead of us, it's been a long time but we are good to go.

Nice early breeze 10-15 knots filling the sails,
as they say "Oh what a feeling"
but ah ha, wait 5 mins, the breeze is up to 15-20 knots, oh and wait there's more, 20-25 knots and the seas are building,
the Captain is in his element,
More Magic is dancing in the waves,
the Wench, well she  declares "Galley Closed".  Brace yer cutlass and prepare yer timbers t'shiver.
Fishing lines are inboard , safety gear is on,
down to the business of real sailing, we reef once,
we reef twice, and still racing along at 7-8 knots, this girl is flying, white water is scrubbing the decks, blue water is sloothing past the hull, And the smile on Ganghooks face is priceless. "Yarrrgh , this is our ticket home me little mateys"

It's definitely an adventurers day out on the water.

Night falls, not a big moon, so the phosphorescence's are alive and glowing in the wake of More Magic.
A hearty meal is heated up, minimum time in the galley, and night watches start. Watching was the best option, as sleep evaded, the feel of the water rushing past, the sound of the wind in the rigging and the heel,
and I'm not talking about my shoes here! was less than desired for a sleepy Wench.

As daybreak came so did the smiles, hot coffee and calm waters behind the shelter of Talaud Island.
Yes we were once again in for a beautiful days sail with 60nm to go to our chosen anchorage for a couple of nights and partake in the hospitality promised by the Indonesians.

We were not disappointed, after a comfortable night anchored in 20mts of sand off a small village, we were greeted by the Indonesian authorities, formalities carried out with smiles and laughter all around, we were even blessed to be visited by a couple of children dressed in official immigration uniforms. Such is the people!!!

A beach party BBQ lunch  was arranged for us at a close by island, there was dancing and singing, eating and chatting, frolicking in the cool clear waters of Little Sara Island. It would appear the Indonesians are very adaptable, we were entertained by the Quarantine Officer, giving his rendition of Roy Orbison and many other heart wrenching songs, peppered with traditional songs and musicians playing hand made string instruments we were mobbed by children wanting to have their photos taken with us, and by us. We fell into bed with faces aching from laughter and smiles.

Time to set sail once again bound for Morotai, the sea state not so good, the wind not so calm, but a sailing we shall go!
30 mins from the anchorage we were engulfed by the big unsettled seas, More Magic lay over and sails to perfection, Captain winching and winding, Wench whining and whingeing, a quick retreat was made to keep the galley open and we aborted the sail to Morotai and headed back to Davao.
Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do, not too often have we turned away from a challenge, but if the cooks not happy, !!!!!!!!

Message in a Bottle # 14

July 17 2012. 

The Buxom Wench and Ganghook are still messing about in More Magic, , so busy we are living the dream and keeping you updated via the  
Where is More Magic been and what has she seen!    Just look to your right!

Cheers Me Little Hardies.

!!!!!!

Messing about in More Magic

December 13 2010

Tis the 50^th year of our Buxom Wench and many treasures have been acquired and stowed.

We last spoke of the Wild Man of Borneo, what can I say Wild Men, Wild Animals and the Wild Wild West. 1 year, 12 months, 9 cat lives, 7 dog years Ganghook and the Wench have roamed this wild coast line.

There are still mountains to be climbed and seas to be sailed along this magnificent coast of Borneo, not to mention fish to be caught. “Yes we are back in the land of fish or should I say sea of fish”.

From the Santabong Mountain Ganghook and the crew sailed up the virgin coast in search of Head Hunters. We maneuvered through raging rivers with fast floating logs, to a small village of Iban Long houses. Were we met our real Wild Men and Willing Women. More Magic lay at anchor for days whilst visiting ashore, we eat, we talked and we took torak (rice wine) What were we being fattened and marinated for one may well ask.

Nothing this time, we were sent away with treasures of Paddi from the fields and bottles of Torak, an invitation was given to return and bring more of our tribe to join in a feast of Gawai this coming June. Ah these Iban they very smart cookies.

So with full tummies and full hearts we sailed our way to Mirri.

Time to leave the ship the Wench cries, for a girl needs firm footing for a while, so firm footing she shall get. A flight to Bario on board a – (Chris to elaborate) deep in the mountains of Sarawak where the practice of head hunting had only ended 50 years prior. Could this be the final undoing of Ganghook and his Beloved Wench ……….

The Captain was in Seventh Heaven the Wench well she definitely does not do bush. Bathing with wild buffalo, Singing in the churches in Kalibit (Karaoke style) not even English and center of the microphone,,,, No siree the Wench sure does not do Karaoke or Bush, Ah but read on and you will see just what do the Crew of More Magic do!!!!

Ganghook, The Buxom Wench and the Crew of More Magic are sailing rapidly into 2011. What a year it has been in the wilds of Borneo and the backwaters of the Palawan Archipelago. In early January More Magic set off northwards from Kota Kinabalu, the home of the Mountain in Sabah for the tip of Borneo and the Balabac Strait, the watery barrier between East Malaysia and the Philippines.
Seas were fair and winds were light as Ganghook stealthily navigated his way into unfamiliar waters off the west coast of Palawan and beyond. Our first ports of call were poor coastal fishing villages often inhabited by less than 100 people with limited schools and infrastructure? Imelda and her mate, Ferdinand had long ago done away with any bullion that may have been used to better the conditions for the locals.
Nevertheless, the people were welcoming, honest and generous with what little they had. All the way up the west coast of Palawan we received genuine welcomes and smiling faces. At Quezon we were ‘welcomed’ by the local Immigration, customs and quarantine officials who had driven from Puerto Princessa just to relieve us of several thousand Pesos. Such a generous bunch. (Plundering at its best)
Further north we were seduced by the fabulous corals of El Nido and the limestone casts of the area as well as the yummy smells from the local bakery. (Not to mention the gorgeous Bronzed Philipino Boys. The Wench was in heaven, the Captain be afraid, very afraid!)
Just to the north east we visited the former Marcos Game reserve on Calauit Safari Park in the Calamain Island Group. There we found translocated giraffes and zebras together with some nocturnal deer species all happily cohabiting with the local fauna and naturally reproducing. Daun loved the giraffe’s purple tongue. (Now The Wench wants a Giraffe - are we really on Ganghooks Ark?)
At the scene of one of the WW2 sea battles south of Busuanga Island we dived on several wrecks which were a poignant reminder of the lost lives of past conflicts. Conversely, at a small resort in Conception Bay we relaxed and swam in the warm waters enjoying the sight and sounds of local dolphins and turtles.
The diving Mecca of Apo reef was calling and after an interesting sail to the east we all did our first “wall dive”. From a depth of four metres the reef drops away to 100 metres in an almost vertical wall. Hammerhead, white and black tipped reef sharks, Manta rays, turtles and thousands of fish abound. Wow what a dive.
As the northerly trade winds have developed its time to head south towards Puerto Princessa to clear out and head for Borneo Malaysia once more.
We day sailed south and were rewarded with a variety of pelagic fish mostly Spanish mackerel, enough for us and sometimes enough for the locals as well.
In March we left MM and flew to Laos for two weeks to experience the festivities marked by the end of the dry season and to visit Luang Prabang, Vientiane and the mysterious Plain of Jars.
During the last stages of the Vietnam conflict the Plain of Jars was subjected to continuous bombing by the US and a reputed 3 million tonnes of ordinance was dropped during a 5 year period. Ironically, many of the younger Laos have made enough money from collecting scrap steel since the end of the conflict to pay for their education including tourism guiding and many other benefits. During this time the Australian Government has also been involved in clearing unexploded bombs from many populated areas.
Both Luang Prabang and Vientiane offer interesting insights into the history of the former French colony. Many French eating houses exist in both cities and offer a range of cuisines and wines not seen in other parts of Asia we have been to. We enjoyed beef steak and good quality French wine for about AU$20/bottle at most places.

After returning to Borneo in April we were joined by like minded Pirates from the South Australian contingent whom we cruised in company with to the Louisiades in 2006. Phil and Marlene sailed with us from KK to Miri stopping at Tiga Island on the way. Tiga is famous for its mud volcano and we all got very muddy while enjoying the attendant beauty treatment to the mirth of some locals.

After leaving Miri we sailed south to visit the longhouses of our Iban friends on the Mupong River. The Mupong is a remote tributary of the mighty Rajang River in Sarawak. We were invited to join our Iban friends and their extended families to help celebrate Hari Gawai, (the rice festival, which is so important to their culture. Ganghook and the Wench were put to the test of staying power during week of celebrations, offerings to the gods (many Ibans still practice Animism), traditional dancing, music and feasting, the festivities wind down and we reluctantly headed back down the Rajang.




Kuching the capital of Sarawak, is host city for the world famous Rainforest Music Festival. Three days of local and international music and workshops held at the Santubong Cultural Village and performed by renowned musos is a memorable event not to be missed if you are heading for Borneo around July.
In late July we participated in the Borneo International Yachting Challenge a series of races from Miri in Sarawak to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah. A total distance of 180 nautical miles, the races are held in stages and are good fun. We were blessed with a visit from one of our old sea dog, John Dear of tractor fame, who came to help us with the beer,bow and male bonding . (Drinking it that is. )The Sailing was good too.
After the race we headed north east to round the Tip of Borneo and then south east to Sandakan the home of Agnes Keith the author of Land Below The Wind, the most famous book about Sabah and the British North Borneo Company published in the late 30’s.
Our Sandakan visit coincided with the 65th Anniversary of the end of WW2 at the Memorial Park. The Australian GG was guest of honour at the wreath laying ceremony and spoke about the tragic loss of the Australian and British POW’s during the Death Marches in 1945, Sandakan to Ranau just months before the cessation of hostilities. A very moving ceremony and a wonderful place to commemorate the sacrifice of “our boys”.
In September More Magic became home for Hilly & Steve from Perth for a week we did some further exploring of the State of Sabah and visited the Kundasan War Memorial at Ranau, which was built in the early 50’s but fell into disrepair and was resurrected by a local who has spent the last 10 years building, maintaining and renovation the fences and gardens.

Sandakan is one of the few places in Borneo where Orang Utans can be viewed in the wild. We crossed the bar of the Kinabatangan River and motored

upstream for a few days till we reached the village of Sukau. Here we explored the river its tributaries and oxbow lakes by dinghy for a week. We were rewarded by seeing all manner of local animals, including


Borneo elephants, Orang utans, proboscis monkeys, pig tailed macaques, crocodiles, many different species of kingfisher and loads of green snakes. It was a wonderful week for us both as the quietness brought the animals to us, rather than us having to see them in a reserve or zoo.

As the diving season was coming to a close we decided to continue south east for the Sulu Sea and Sipidan and Marbul Islands.
We spent 10 days diving in this magnificent area and saw heaps of sharks and turtles. Sipidan Island is a wall dive and presented us with fantastic variety of fish and marine life. Following this dive adventure we day sailed slowly back towards Kudat to do our annual haul out and anti foul.
So as you can see Captain Ganghook, The Buxom Wench and various rogues have covered some miles both under and above the waters this year.
We shall be Feasting in Brunei for Christmas then returning to Miri where we shall start 2011 off with a bang and a much awaited visit from Daniel Number One Son.
Hope to see and hear from you in the coming year.

Message in a Bottle # 13

Planes Trains and Buses

4th September 2009


On the top of a mountain in the wild jungle of Borneo the Gallant Captain Ganghook sits and looks down over the low valleys and deep river where More Magic lays peacefully at anchor with the Buxom Wench aboard preparing a feast for his return.

Ganghook has had a very prosperous few months, since leaving the crystal clear waters of Tioman Island the crew have ventured up the spice rich coast of East Malaysia, devouring all that dare to come before them, not an island has been left untouched, Ganghook and his Wench have left their mark, as far north as The Perenthian Islands where the back packers are fierce and the music is booming, to Terengganu where all the Mosques are tiled with the most exotic jewels and reflect the sun for as far as the eye can see.
Ah but the sea is not enough for the adventurous crew of More Magic, they must see more, learn more, Trains, planes and buses await, for there is more than one way to conquer the vast lands of Asia.
Ganghook, the Wench & the trusty ships Rat “Cheese” take to the skies. From Terengganu to Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok then a over night train trip (and oh what a train trip, perhaps the Wench is better suited to the high seas or perhaps a crate of Rum would help ease the journey!) to Chiang Mai, in Northern Thailand home of the Asian Elephant, now most loved animal of the Wench, “Oh Captain, every ship needs an Elephant” she proclaims after spending a most exciting day playing in the rivers with these wondrously genteel animals. “Nay” the Captain replays “with all the shoes and handbags, there is not room at the inn for such a beast a rat shall be your lot” http://www.elephantnaturepark.org .
Before leaving Chiang Mai a must do is to visit the Chiang Mai Zoo, for there are many exotic creatures roaming the grounds, from Hippo’s to Papa Bear (Proud father of the Panda) and you may even catch a White Tiger there.

5 days and 5 nights are enjoyed plundering the back streets and alley ways of Chiang Mai, food and fabric galore; not to mention the hundreds of WATS,” What is a Wat you may well ask?” Temples, Wats and Pagoda’s they are all the same just a different language, Yes it is true, Thailand is abundant with these glistening gold leaf monuments. Oh the Wench is in heaven, market upon market, alas though it is the Captain who buys the shoes, (Tis a plot to keep the elephant off the ship!!!!).
From Chiang Mai on to Chiangrai they relax in style on Malaysia’s Deluxe Coach lines, take in the Magic sites of rice paddies and tranquil beauty that Northern Thailand is famous for.
From Chiangrai a car is hired to drive through the steep climbing mountain roads to Maisalong, home of the Hill tribe people, and the beginning of the Golden Triangle, there is no evidence of opium grown here now days, Tea and tourism has taken its place. A night is spent in the fresh mountain air overlooking the Burmese border before the traveler’s head off once again back down the slopes towards Chiangrai.

Chiangrai is the site of the most Magnificent Wat Rong Khun www.watrongkhun.com a feast for the eyes of all who see.


The brave captain & crew journeyed along on the local bus, now how many Thais can you fit on a bus, I think we finally found the answer, on boxes and floors 5 to a 2 person seat this was a real up close and personal trip, never the less the fearless crew rose to the challenge and disembarked in the planned location with just a few minor knocks and bumps.

Another highlight in Chiangrai is the Town Clock Tower, created by the same artist as the Wat Rong Khun) twice each night there is a cacophony of color and sound, changing from yellow to red to purple, the whole show lasts around 10mins and the traffic is still going around the roundabout, business as usual whilst we brave sailors capture the show on our cameras.

Alas it is well known that a pirate’s life is unpredictable and these pirates must cut the trip short and rush back to the good ship, then on to home lands as there are attempts of plundering happening on the home shores. Ganghook’s treasures must be protected at all costs.

A quick trip on the big silver bird returns the sailors once more to the good ship MMagic and it is time to set sail, for the Wild Men of Borneo are calling.

Message in a Bottle # 12

Pirates held Captive in Malaysia

Will Gang hook and The Buxom Wench survive the Malaysian gallows????????

“Nay” screamed the Head of Immigration and Malaysian law,

"throw them to the sharks. We have been searching for these pirates for 24 moons or more, now we have them in our grasp, we shall throw them in the dungeons and chuck away the key."

Thirty days of hard labor and toil, 30 nights of drunken debauchery,” work hard, play harder” says the tireless captain; “we shall take all we can from this land of Siam, no Chandler nor shipwright, shall be left unscathed.” For on the morn of the 30^th day of the 7^th moon we shall make haste to Malaysian waters with our sea chests full and bootie aplenty.

So once again the handsome Ganghook, together with the Buxom Wench and their faithful crew set sail for Langkawi leaving the plundered shores of Phuket behind.
A 90 day holiday in is granted. The Captain has declared; No plundering, No pirating, for even the hardiest of pirates tire. Oh what joy; oh what fun the lusty wench sighs," we shall shop, we shall dine in the finest restaurants Malaysia has to offer, we shall explore the inland sights." Breathlessly she prepares for unknown adventures.

Ten days of idyllic cruising the exotic islands around Langkawi, crystal clear waters, white sandy beaches. A life of Riley. Simple pleasures of frozen Margarita’s at sunset, seafood delicacies on the shore and lazy mornings in the sun. Ah but enough of this! Malaysia has more to offer, a shopping spree is next on the holiday hit list and so Penang is the next port of call.
Unbeknown to all, the captain has developed a shoe fetish, or has he grown more feet? His foot locker has expanded with;

• four more pairs of shoes,
• eight check shirts,
• three pairs of shorts,
• two new hats
• and a nice new handbag for me!

So what can a girl do, with a new handbag, one needs to accessorizes so accessorize she does. Shop till you drop is the chant, Save on the bargains. Live for now and pay tomorrow. Oh we just love those little plastic thingies!
Now the business part of the holiday is done and dusted a bit of back to nature is required by the Captain. He has decided that he is going to treat his beauty to one of the natural wonders of the world. Taman Negara, the first and largest national park Malaysia has to offer. A show case of nature, a step back in time, fourteen fun filled nights listening to the sounds of silence!

His dream! Her nightmare! The Wench still doesn’t do bush. Trekking through the jungle, a watchful eye out for tigers, another for elephants, and yet another eye out for snakes. So many eyes a girl needs. The trekkers hear stories of the great white tiger, and the small but dangerous Malaysian jungle elephants. But alas; they have seen none.
Not is all lost in the captain’s mind. There are mountains to be climbed, snakes to be photographed and leaches galore. He is in his element. "Yet another element, the wench" adds ruefully. The Buxom Wench has been reduced to a disheveled wreck. Weak from a lack of blood, caused by the excessive thirst of the leaches, which together with the bite of the mosquito take their wretched toll? The two intrepid travelers must climb to the high grounds to escape the blood thirsty locals.

Finally, exhausted and weary, with pillows, wheelie backpacks, books and bandages the holiday makers board the bus headed for The Cameron Highlands, the Steam boat capital of Malaysia. Once at Fathers Guest house R&R is the order of the stay. A few gentle walks around the town, Tea for Two, (This is Tea growing country) bellies full of fresh F&V, back on track the two are ready to return to the good ship More Magic. Once more on board, the crew becomes restless and the call of the sea beckons. Crates of Rum and the finest wine are loaded. Ganghook and the Wench dressed to kill, approach the authorities. Ah, but alak and alas, the two are held captive by the Malaysian Immigration officers, for they have overstayed their welcome. Three months is apparently three days more than the 90 days granted.
Oh what a blunder!!!!!

For 6 torturous hot hours they are held in detention, subjected to ancient forms of interrogation, and finally forced to surrender their passports. All is not well, the ship lays at anchor the faithful crew on board waiting for their Captain and Wench to return, this can’t be happening, this just can’t happen!
The Handsome Captain and his beauty devise a plan, bribery and corruption is not dead,nothing and no-one can keep the Captain at bay for long.Finally, with papers and passports in order a hasty getaway is made and they leave Malaysian waters.

North we go once again. Take me to Thailand……, Burma, ………, or India.

Anywhere as long as it is far far away...

A Captain, A Birthday and a Wild Wild Ride

Message in a Bottle
June 2008

A Captain, A Birthday and a Wild Ride

Now that More Magic is in safe harbor at Boat Lagoon Phuket the story must be told of her Maiden Voyage under her new name. This adventure is not for the weak or the faint hearted, so prepare yourself for the rough ride, there’s lotsa water coming your way!

Sunday 22^nd June 2008

The time has come to leave the fair shores of Langkawi. The Handsome Captain Ganghook has made a vow he will have his heroin The Buxom Wench on the tropical paradise island of Phuket for her birthday. Is this vow in haste?

“But we have no ships papers!” The Wench cries. A forging she shall go. Begged, borrowed and scanned papers are expertly photo shopped (don’t you just love modern technology). Sleepless nights haunt the Wench – A fear for Thai prison invades her breathless dreams. The day has arrived. A sailing they must go.

More Magic is named; a mythical naked dance around the mast is performed by Captain & crew. The ship must leave the shores

Then miraculously the Bonified ships papers are emailed from Australia.

All is well, and all is ready with only 5 days to go before the Wench’s Birthday.

“Hoist the main sail, throw the lines, Phuket or bust!!!!!!!” Is Ganghook’s cry.

A slight breeze and a five nautical mile sedate sail to Talaga Harbor where customs & officials await.

More Magic rounds the heads and prepares to drop the anchor. OH NO the slight breeze has built 25knotts and gusting, the Genoa furler is jammed, the sheets are flogging, the Wench at the helm, dodging moored vessels, the wind howls, the Captain Yells from the bow amongst the tangle of sheets & sails. The Radar reflector fly’s of the mast and plops into the water.

The halyard is dropped, the sail falls to the deck, the anchor is lowered, phew! As More Magic swings and jerks this way and that. Not Happy Jan!

A radio call to the marina office is made and a temporary berth is granted. The crew looking very smart in their newly embroidered official uniforms completes the formalities, and then prepares to throw the lines once again, in the pouring rain. Maybe there is a sign out there!!!

The rain slows, the breeze has calmed and the seas are slight. Oh we are sailing,(reminds me of a song) this is the life. 7.30pm sees More Magic is anchored of the picturesque island of Koh Tarutao, the first of 52 national park islands in Thailand, just 30 nm north of Talaga. With a good nights sleep and joy in there hearts to be finally out on the majestic waters of Thailand, hot coffee and croissants on deck, MM slides effortlessly through the calmness. Bang! Shudder! jolt ! coffee tossed, Wench thrown and slammed against the combing Hard Aground, who put that whopping great reef there? More Magic is wedge tight in the reef. She has lurched over the reef with the keel in one hole and the rudder stuck in another, the Wench recovers and looks over the side, 6 inches of water can be seen and the most spectacular reef structure since the Great Barrier Reef. With a suspected falling tide, a PAN PAN, PAN PAN, PAN PAN. Call is made, to a nearby vessel at anchor. This vessel is anchored a mere 100mts away, it is 8am, no response; the Wench mans the blow horn 3 short bursts, still no response, 3 long blows, still no response. The ever capable captain fly’s into action, The Wench offers to swim to the other vessel but no she is needed onboard. The dingy is lowered, a tow line is attached the captain is preparing to tow MM to deep water, a quick survey of the situation, no water taken down below, the Wench is gripped with fear of her beloved galleon becoming one of the many wrecks found along the coastline. The wench returns, up on deck she moves the rudder, then the reef disappears, she informs the captain who is on the starboard side, the captain suspects the wench has lost the plot. He takes a look on the port side, Tis true, the reef has submerged, the tide is coming in, MM is afloat. Blessings are made, the dingy is re stowed and a fresh brew of coffee is called for. All this excitement before 9am. And still the anchored vessel has not stirred. “Just another skid mark on life’s underpants”. (A quote from the wise one.).

Hopes are high for a good days fishing, but alas the weather has other plans. A condition of fishing is,( No fishing to windward), and a windward we are going. The seas are rising, the skies are black and the rain is falling, (maybe should have stayed in bed this day). For 42 miles the wet soggy crew beat their way through the torrential rain, being blown this way and that. The winds come from all directions, 25knotts, then 50knts, back to 10 knot’s. What to do. The weary crew finally set the anchor off the small island of Ko Phetra in 6 mts of water, amongst 20 or more trawlers seeking respite from the savage winds. The large cliff wall is a huge concern to the crew of More Magic, as bullets are being forced down from the cliff, smashing the anchored vessels. The Captain is anxious the rope which holds the anchor will not last the night. More Magic is yanking and pulling, the rope is wrapped around the keel, this is not good. The crew are tired and fearful for their safety, an escape from this situation is not an option. The captain is pacing the deck untangling the rope for many hours during the long wet night. The winds do not ease; as the horse shoe life ring is ripped from the stern by the savage bullets as they continue to pound the decks. Daylight comes and the crew prepares to up anchor and turn back to Langkawi, and safety. But NO! there is a wind shift and the safest route is to press on, so on the exhausted crew travel. The sun shines the breeze blows a gentle 15 knots and More Magic and crew begin to relax into the rhythm of the sea. Lunch is served all is well, then the tell tale dark clouds race across the sky, reef the main sail! Reef the Genoa! don the wet weather gear, there’s a bad blow coming. For the next 15 miles the sea and the sky meet, a wall of white is all that can be seen. The bow of More Magic is lost in the white, the wind howls all about, and the crew seeks refuge yet again. Koh Kradan is the closes island on the charts, the course is altered, another large fleet of trawlers are on moorings and at anchor sheltering from the storm, there is little room for More Magic to swing on her anchor. A large trawler moves of its mooring bouy to make room for the new comer. A quick survey of the mooring shows that the rope is to short, the captain has to go for a swim in the dangerous conditions to secure a longer line to the mooring to make fast More Magic. Ohh he’s such a hero. The wench is besotted with her Man of the sea.

Meanwhile the Wench mans the helm and expertly steers her beloved MM onto the mooring. Securely moored, the crew enjoy a hot shower and a steaming bowl of hearty soup. They sleep fitfully, ever on alert; the Wench is well past the sleepless nights and dreams of the security of being a Marina Baby. The crew are up early, ready to take what ever the day has on offer for there last leg of the journey to Phuket. “Just get me there!!!!” demands the irate Wench. And the rest of the journey is history, As they say in all good story books.

For these are the mysterious waters where pirate movies are made and Bond loves to play!!!! (James that is- Shaken not stired)))))).

More Magic & The year of the Rat

2007 has been a many faraway plentiful year for Capt. Ganghook, the Wench & the faithful crew of Magic. So many lands have they plundered, Malaysia, Thailand, a revisit to Grand old Australia and of coarse the small island ladened with treasures to the South, the land of the Chicken & Camembert Pie.
Magics beam bursting with loot the time has come to up size to a larger galleon. The search began!
Magics treasures were off loaded to a secret location buried deep in the caves of an island paradise of Langkawi.Ganghook travels far & wide in search of the perfect vessel to continue the journey with Cheese, (the ships rat) by his side. He scourers the net, word has it New Zealand is the place a large vessel worthy of the Magic crew is there, but alas, this is not so, the Wench, Ganghook and Cheese search the shores of Phuket where many a fine pirate ship lay in waiting to be plundered and taken, still non can match the Wenches needs. The Captain roams the lands, back to Australia, then to Hong Kong, 'Singapore, Penang. Mean while the Wench with her companion Lulu return to the secret location to watch over the hidden treasures of Magic. Ganghook sends word he has found a worthy sailing ship, an excited crew prepare a take over and make ready for Hong Kong, but NO WAIT! another potential ship has been found in Singapore, the Captain and his loyal friend Captain Terry take to the air, this is "The One" the Wench hears, both Captains are delighted she is a fine ship, so yet again a take over is planned. A Singapore we shall go. AH Pirates can not be trusted, the Singapore Sting is taken from under our watchful eye, o Deal. Back to Hong Kong we will go.

With bags packed a divided crew, consisting of Ganghook, The Wench, Lulu, Cheese and Ted the anxious party wing their way with hope of a new bed for Christmas. On inspection the crew are pleased. A large Captains quarters, raised saloon, big galley, spacious cockpit and room for stowaways.Complete with in mast furling. A haul out and test sail, the deal is done "More Magic" is born.

A 7 year old 2 cabin Jeaneau 43 Deck saloon, She's a little beauty!!!!!


For most of December the crew worked hard preparing "More Magic" who had laid dormant for most of her short seven years in Hong Kong. Much preparation was to be done. Dim Sum , sights to be seen treasures and spices for the taking.

January 2008 is here, Year of the Rat and More Magic is ready. 5th of January, the sails are set, ropes are cast fair winds are predicted and Hong Kong - Sai Kung disappears into the distance smog haze behind the setting sun.

For 2 days and 2 nights both crew and ship perform admirably, with wind in our sails food in our belly's, hopes and dreams for the New Year what could be better. Singapore here we come, 1350 nm the crews longest passage to date.

Day 3 the wind drops, the Wench is taken with the plague - Sea Sickness that is, oh No, - NO Wind No Wench, 2 more days this continues, a slow progress. Day 5 shows promise, clouds in the sky. Yes wind we all say, but alas only a zeffer. With such an impressive sailing ship on the waters we are payed visits by several ships, some fishing boats,

Some Super tankers,up close & personal. These large vessels stealthy move threw the night, fear factor is high, the South China Sea, No plundering is planned for these high waters. Singapore is our One stop Shop till you drop. Bring it on.

Day 4 (night watch) Ganghook is blissfully watching a black monster powering thru the water at 20+knots for about 10 minutes before he realised that, no it was not going to change course for a yacht on PORT tack. Bugger. Poled out heady and all, the good captain steered us onto a parallel course and at the same time she sounded her hooter. Have you heard a ships hooter close up? No good!
The Wench emerges from her slumber to the mighty sound of screeching engines, hooters kitted in life jacket with the grab bag, a first aid book and water bottle. She took some calming before descending to the bowels of our pride and joy once more.
Won't do that again. We found out that Chinese skippers like to skip in front of your vessel to wash off their nasty spirits. It doesn't matter that your vessel is only 40 feet long and weighs 9 tonnes and theirs is 1000 feet long and weights, well who knows.
From then on the code of the sea was adopted calls of Port to Port used.
None acknowledged the message just turned to starboard to show us their red light, among the myriad of others displayed on their black hulls.
A few managed to almost ignore us completely and that was when the Wench pulled out her secret weapon. The 50 watt deck light flashed on and off a few times, together with lots of yelling and waving the dolphin torch about. That worked a few times but sometimes we had to change course to avoid being run down by one of these monsters.
So there was no snoozing on deck on More Magic this time.
Where do these giants go? During the day we hardly saw any boats. One here and there on the horizon. Occasionally we would be jolted alert by a close encounter with a wave maker.
After 12 days at sea we finally decided that most of the really big ships waited just over the horizon during the day lulling us in to a false sense of security. Not many about today the Captain would comment, only to find that there were dozens bearing down on us after dark.

Day 7, January 11th 2008, still no wind, Captain and crew are now rationing, fuel,water and fresh produce is low. A 9 day passage was hoped for a 14 day planned for, We shall see!

January 14, 380 nm to go and wind at last this is our ticket home, the wench tethered in the cockpit the swell rising and the sound of wind and water oh the noise, where is Ganghook when you need him. Ah the captain he resides in the Master cabin keeping a close eye on Lulu and dreaming of plundering the shores of Singapore.

January 17th 2008 the call of land ahoy, Singapore is hidden behind the thousands of anchored tankers, The crew are weary but elated and dreaming of Fish, Chips and a pint of Guiness, but first stop - Bed.
Then the next adventure will begin.

Back to Langkawi

13th September 2007 sees the crew of Magic arrive back in Langkawi after a 6 month visit in Australia, covering, WA, SA, NSW, Vic and Tasmania. We enjoyed visiting with family and friend. Frolicked in the snow fields of NSW, wined and dinned in the Barrossa Valley, laughed and cried whilst going to the theater, watched breathlessly as the the artists of Vareki flew through the air, and took on board new skills of the culinary delights of Bali. Chris challenged himself by participating in the Perth City to Surf Fun Run and came in the 1st 70 runners out of thousands. Daun cooked and entertained her way around Australia and enjoyed catching up with the family. We took a short break to Bali to relax in the luxurious time share we purchased last year. The Peninsular Beach Resort at Nusa Dua. A wonderful week, we enrolled ourselves in a one day cooking coarse, up at 5.30am to the fresh fruit and sea food markets then back to the Bumbu Bali cooking school to get feast on a traditional Bali breakfast yummo, then all hands are on deck and we discover the delights of preparing Balinese food. A talent we shall be sure to return home with to delight our friends with.

Each time we return to Australia it is harder to leave the welcoming smiles and the love we receive from all our family and friends, Thankyou all so much for your support you were all so willing to give us when we needed it the most.

Message in a Bottle - Missing in Action May 2006

Stop the Press


There’s Magic in the Air
It’s been more than 12 months since our last confession. The tides have turned; the winds have changed; Ganghook and the Buxom Wench have been drifting in the Pacific Triangle. (That’s the Aussie version of the Bermuda Triangle or LOST IN SPACE.)
Many miles have we roamed by Sail, flipper, bike wheel and foot. Only to discover we still call Freo our home. Now cast your minds back …..Yes an awful long way; back to the taste of Tassie, where the snow falls in December and Scallop Pies are second to none. In the last missive (yes it was June 2005) we left Ganghook and the Wench at the RYCT enjoying the good company and hospitality of the locals while undertaking some much needed maintenance on Magic. More than 20 major tasks were completed which have given Magic better performance and made her a more comfortable home.
The major issue dogging the crew of Magic was the lack of performance from the Green Machine. Greg Smith a local diesel engineering whiz kid had the problem solved in about half a day where others experts had abandoned the challenge. The recommended Keith “Golden Spanners” Harris was over looked. As it turned out the after-manifold was almost completely blocked by carbon which had morphed into material as hard as steel inside the casting. Slow running over long periods is the usual cause. One day later and some adjustment on the prop we were scooting along at 6 knots at 2300 revs. Oh What a Feeling; suddenly having all that hot throbbing power underfoot.
Over the next few weeks Magic explored the depths of the D’Entrecasteaux Channel, Bruny Island, Oyster Cove, Barnes Bay and Position (Missionary) Bay were favorites. At weekends the Channel came alive with vessels of all descriptions and we learned lots of new tricks. Catching flathead using a “stump-jump” lure and diving for abalone and scallops were just a couple.
During February we volunteered to be the sober crew on Chameleon during “Charity Day” at Rat Bay. The event is organized by the Hobart Rotary Club and involves local businesses “chartering” about 70 boats at $800 and raised more than $50K for a range of local charities. The day was perfect for the event and there was much falling about and frivolity. We understand that there were some sore heads the next day.
Later in February we moored Magic at Kettering the cheapest marina in Australia (and possibly the world) for $44/week and headed for Macquarie Harbour to stay with Kris and David in Taipan who had at last made it to the west coast. During this visit we continued our exploration of the Gordon and Franklin River systems and made it to the limestone caves. On he way upstream we moored at the Boom Camp and were invaded by a very big and black possum who left his little brown turds all over the cockpit. We found the old lime kilns which were used for the early building works at East Pillinger in Kelly Basin. One kiln was in surprisingly good condition with piles of broken lime ready for firing. We continued our exploration of West Pillinger and found the old rail form which transported material to Fysh River.
Early in March we had an opportunity to visit the north of the state by road and stayed for a few days at Beechford. We visited St Columbia falls, and Ralph falls before having a beer with Priscilla the pig who resides at the Pub in the Paddock near Ringarooma. She loved the attention. On our way back to Hobart we drove to the Central plateau via the Western Tiers.
This is all very well but doesn’t sound much like tales of terror, pillage and drunken debauchery; this is “Magic” here after all.
The truth be known about Magic in Tassie was; here it is …….. WE were held captives by the locals for 4 months we were sworn to never divulge the secrets of the Land of the Scallop Pie; never to mention the great treasures we have seen, eaten or drunk or the sensual pleasures we have experienced. Tassie is the place to be descended upon by those from the north island to experience all it has to offer for themselves, rather than a second hand experience.
Once our escape was made good, the Mighty Magic accompanied by Taipan, fled the wild southern shores to return to the mainland. A slow journey to the Whitsunday Islands ensued stopping along the way in exotic coastal towns like Laurieton, Southport , Brisbane, Gladstone and Bundaberg to name a few.
Along the way we have had a change of crew, you may recall Bernard our trusty auto pilot, had other plans. 6 hours out of Sydney Bernard has had enough, his belts are worn, is aim is off, loyalty amongst the crew is hard to find. A unanimous decision to release Bernard of his duties. An investigation was made and on comes Bill, a shinning new bigger and better Autohelm 6000 takes pride of place in the cockpit, the celebrations are had and we are under way yet again.
Who ever said “You can’t teach and old dog new trick” These little sea dogs have made a few discoveries along the way #1 Never make deadlines. They always come back to bite you or simply wet you. Our Fast & Fearless Ganghook made a commitment to join old hearty sailors on a weeks R&R sailing in the Sydney to Southport Race. An annual get together since the beginning of time. To get the Captain to the start in Sydney the crew decided that the best place to house Magic and the Wench was in Gladstone so the clock was ticking.
Extract from the Captains Log Dated 17th June 2005
(The sun has not yet awoken, the river looks calm, top of the tide, nil wind and bar working well comes the report from the Coast Guard.)
With coffees on the deck and sleep in their eyes Ganghook and the Grumpy Wench meander up the river, just another bar and a day that promises a beautiful sunrise. There’s a flotilla of tinnies to farewell us over the bar. Hmm didn’t know the Magicians were so popular.
The wench is on the bow torch in hand with the wind gently caressing her hair, fishermen are waving, Oh these Laurieton folk are nice. The Wench waves back, Suddenly there’s water; lots of white crashing water; the wench is driven back to the cockpit. The Captain is wide eyed and white knuckled gripping the helm with one hand the other on the throttle. “Hold on, save the coffee”, he yells. The Wench throws herself on the cockpit floor as Magic crashes through the set of 7 huge waves, relentless in their assault, each reach high up the mast, and over the dodger. Murphy’s law is applied to the situation, the green machine is not happy, with the disintegration of the impeller the alarm is screaming. Yet the Captain pushes her reves up higher. Magic’s bow is rising higher and higher. Catapulted up in the air. She feels in mid flight, crashing back into the water shaking her to the keel bolts with the last wave now astern.
Finally, the shaken crew emerge from the near final chapter attempt to set the sails, but wait there’s more, the Genoa won’t unfurl, the Captain races forward fearful for his crews life only to discover the anchor bracket has been carried away by the wild seas, pushing the anchor stock into the geno furler. The Wench calls out “put up the spinnaker, were being pulled back onto the bar.” The captain works swiftly to release the genoa and they are off. At seven am the champagne is poured the crew are shaken, stirred and very grateful. They live to tell the tale. Bar’s are now banned in the dark.
As time marches on and the race for time behind us we enjoy the pleasures of the Whitsundays. Hamilton Island Race Week is a BIG week and the Magic crew are part of all the action. We join the crew of Chameleon, a 46 footer from Tasmania, for a week of fun in the wind and sun is taken to the extremes. Prizes are won, trophies are worn stories are told and the Tasmanians go home. The Piggott’s from Newcastle spent some time with Magic during the week at Hammo.
Magic have guests-a-plenty in the islands, we are joined by Amory and Lluis (Ganghooks daughter & partner from Spain) followed by Alfie and Alison, Jacquie and the kids join us from England. The crew also share time and oysters with Kerry, Tony and the crew from Gallavanter. Oh for the island life.
In January this year, Ganghook and the Wench took time out from the sea to play Grandparents, now that is a challenge. Camping was on the agenda, at a National Park near Manilla in central NSW. Along the way we passed through Tamworth, it was Golden Guitar week the town was crawling with the Click Clack brigade. (Oldies with fold out chairs). Perhaps crawling was a bit harsh, the town was at a standstill for the country Music Festival. There was singing, camping and Bootscooting in the streets, Mechanical bulls on every corner, big hats and cowdy boots all over the place. So we hightailed out of there quick fast. Bush here we come; and you know; the Wench doesn’t do bush. Well bush it was, bush, bush huge bung arras and not a shoe store in sight. We swam in creeks and panned for Gold, (Chris’s wedding ring actually) Made campfires and played snap and fish till the sun went down. Oh for the city life.
Christmas saw Magics and the Taipans rafted up in Morton Bay. A feast afloat was prepared and the party was well planned. The menu was Roast Turkey, Leg Ham and an abundance of Seafood. All the trimmings, presents and homemade ice-cream, the day was going to be Magical in a little bay called Horseshoe Bay. The weather, well what can we say, it’s a bit like Tasmania, - just wait 10 mins. The succulent Turkey was out of the oven, the delicious vegies were passed over to Taipan in preparation for the feast. Out of the blue Magic was forced to dump her mooring lines as a 25 knot southerly hit. Our Christmas dinner was in serious jeopardy, we waved it goodbye as we steamed away with the promise to return. Yup 2hrs later the storm had passed and Magic did return to Horseshoe Bay to resume our Christmas feast. New Year celebrations took place in the Brisbane River; we were joined by Tim (Ganghooks brother) Alfie, Alison and a few others. We all partied like there’s no 2005 into the wee hours, a fine start to a brand new year.
Our Adventures; gruelling they have been at times; “Ha” you may say; but alas it is true. We’ve dodged massive sea mammals and fought the local Queenslanders to defend the mighty Eagles and the Dockers. For 10 months the brave crew have suffered the heat humidity and the unpredictability of the Qld weather. But enough is enough, and the west beckoned the Magicians home westward bound.
February found us aboard a great silver bird soaring high in the sky, we were on our way to where the sun sets in the Indian Ocean and the beaches and wine are unchallenged.
For 7 weeks Cheese, Ganghook and the Wench partied hard. No comrade was left untouched or sober, no shopping outlet unpunished. The crew showed no mercy, Food, wine and women (with the occasional man thrown in) were the order of the day, week and month.
Exhausted and satiated Ganghook caught an early flight back to Sydney where the crew of High Anxiety were making ready for the Sydney to Gold Coast race. The start was a classic, a southerly buster was flying up the coast and rolled over Rushcutters bay just an hour before the gun went off. 40 knots at the heads and something had to give. Spinnakers popped from mastheads which more often than not resulted in tatters and tapes fluttering up the harbour on the fresh southerly. Out the heads we flew with a #4 and full main, flying thru the pack racing north at speeds of up to 14 knots. We passed 40 and 50 footers and at one point were placed in the top 10. Then the wind died and we worked hard to finish in headwinds. A great time spent with sailing mates from 20 years.
The Wench made a leisurely arrival into Brisbane a few days later suffering home sickness and took up the cleaning cudgel. Gradually Magic was brought to order with new standing rigging, another spinnaker pole, crab pot, scrubbed top to bottom, fan in the galley, and other essential transformations. To complete the victualling a pallet of plundered wine (64cases) arrived from WA to be shared among 3 boats.
Loaded to the gunnels Magic headed for Mooloolaba to catch up with friends and play on a white sandy beach. For a week we luxuriated in the sunshine changed the smelly pipes in the head and took coffee (and sometimes cake) with David from Taipan.
Whilst travelling farther north we enjoyed 2 weeks in the Great Sandy Straits. Maryborough was one of the delights of the straits. Situated 18 miles up the Mary River, a quaint little town which hasn’t left the 19th century. We were privy to the firing of the town’s cannon (ex-VOC fro Timor) which marks 1300 each Thursday, we not to sure how the local’s know what time it is the rest of the week. We ventured on the Mary-Anne (a small steam train built by Walkers Engineering in 1887) around the local botanical gardens and enjoyed viewing the many museums in the town.
Fraser Island was our next stop, where the Captain joined the Fremantle crew of Isalei Rua, whom we have met along the way several time since Tasmania, on a 26km hike to Lake McKenzie. Meanwhile, being Mothers Day, the Wench availed herself of some much needed pampering at the Kingfisher Resort. A two hour massage, a facial and an afternoon bird watching by the pool all adds to a happy crew. On the other hand a very tired Captain limped home with a blown out reef walker. He had a great day. (Men are from Mars.)
Ganghook, and the newly toned and beautiful wench have recently farewelled Taipan as they have taken the challenged to investigate piracy options in Indonesia and Thailand while we swan off to the Louisaides to trade with the locals. I think the plan is to start up our own band, Ganghook playing the Clarinet and the Wench on Harmonica and vocals. Now there’s a sound to look forward to. Bound to start a coup.

Message in a Bottle - Just wait 10 minutes February 2005

Message in a Bottle – Part 9
Magic in Tassie - Wait 10 Minutes!

Just another day in sunny paradise. What? This is Tasmania “Wait 10 minutes and the weather will change”
Australia Day weekend and the seagoing crew of Magic arrive to the worst pen at the best address, hmmm Mersey Yacht Club in Devonport – so says the cruising guide. A climb over 2 fishing boats then a hop over the rail onto decaying ply sheeting over a couple of floating pontoons, a trapeze act along a piece of steel then a climb up a rusty ladder; finally the bar is in sight. Boags beautiful Boags, the nectar of Tasmania. Introductions all-round as Ganghook, the Very Beautiful Buxom Wench and crew (Cheese, Mona, Bernard, Lu Lu, Albert, and Sailor Sam) join with other sailors in the Van Diemens Land Circumnavigation, our sailing companions for the next 4 weeks.
Yachts of all sizes, so many names, too many beers, it’s going to take a lot of briefings and beers to get this right. To those unfamiliar with the event, the VDL Circumnavigation was initiated many years ago by, among others the indifatigueable Joe Cannon. The event is organised by the RYCT every 2 years and this year as held in conjunction with the Royal Geelong YC. The circumnavigation was well planned and supported by a wide range of yachties from all over Australia with one husband and wife crew from the US. So many people from a diverse backgrounds all with a love of sailing. The crew of Magic were overwhelmed by the kindness and generosity shown throughout the cruise and after while we remained in Tassie. Many of the sailors we met have become very good friends.
The sights of Devonport at taken in, and surprise, surprise a shoe shop is found, yes you guessed it, a very dashing pair of shoes (all terrain Land Rovers) are purchased for the Captain. He’s in trouble now, the shoe bug has him.
January 27 2005
A fleet of 31 boats set sail for the tiny timber-walled port of Stanley; all jostling to lead the pack. Magic has nothing to prove, for a weekend warrior she is not, the adventurous crew stay at the rear of the fleet as there’s fishing to be done and the sights of the North Coast of Tassie to be enjoyed. The historic fishing village of Stanley is the first port of call, there’s a Nut (a volcanic neck) to be climbed the first of many such high places. Already the Wench has developed a dislike for all things high, and Tasmania has a lot of high things, hills, rocks and mountains, none of which have cafes at the top. An apparently very uncivilised little state.
A couple of days exploring finds the old ANZ bank where the skippers dad worked (as well as a Commercial Bank, Bank of NSW and ES&A bank), several gift shops, a cheese and wine bar, craft shop and heaps of cafes, and the pub where most of the circumnavigators are found. In short, lots of places to spend our hard earned treasure. Best of all the quaint and colourful little houses associated with 150 years of fishing are in good condition and well patronised by holiday makers during “the summer months”. More on the summer months later.
On 30th the fleet headed for Three Hummock and Hunter islands for a night anchorage before heading down the notorious west coast. During the day we received a weather forecast for strong NW winds on the west coast. The cruise commodore decided this was an ideal opportunity to push on to Macquarie Harbour, the narrow entrance of which is appropriately named Hells Gates, which becomes difficult in strong NW winds. So we were committed to our first overnight sail in the roaring 40’s.
So on we rolled through Hunter Passage. Magic still at the rear of the fleet and the conditions in the passage were somewhat akin to entering Prince Regent River in the Kimberley. Six knots of current in a narrow channel against the prevailing westerly winds kicked up the waves into short sharp seas which tend to launch little boats into the abyss on the other side creating all sorts of stuff to happen below including the “galley shut” sign to be hung out. Fortunately aboard Magic, not being the fastest horse out of the stalls, things were not too bad below. We know this because the log noted, “No position Daun was sleeping at 3 am”; then “still no position Daun still sleeping at 5:30”; then at 9am “the radio sked awoke Daun and we now have a position”. (To be a Beautiful Buxom Wench one needs lots of Beauty sleep.)
Later the next afternoon, we reached Cape Sorrell lighthouse abeam of Hells Gates in a 25 to 30 knots following wind and turned east towards the entrance training wall which was out of view behind the lines rolling combers crashing into the sand either side of the entrance channel. At this stage we had the #3 and double reef’d main and were rapidly slewing towards the direction of the entrance. (Teeth chattering stuff) At last the training wall was sighted and we furled the main, leaving only the #3. During this time we had been following another sail which was about 2 miles ahead. We reached the training wall in sight of the entrance and the water calmed somewhat. Suddenly, Daun viewing our approach on the nav program on the computer called that were too far to the west that we were in the wrong bay, a second later an unidentified voice on the VHF rang out, “you have to turn right, the green boat should be following the leads and turning right” Hells Gates right.
At this moment Ganghook decided to reduce speed and sail by furling the #3. Yep, you guessed it the bloody furler took this opportunity to demonstrate that bolts holding plastic end plates to an aluminium drum without washers can pull through and jam the furling line. The Buxom wench raced to the wheel while Ganghook released the halyard and raced forw’d to douse the sail. Magic stopped slewing and plunging and we passed Entrance Island in somewhat calmer conditions with the green machine performing as usual.
The green boat referred to in the VHF message was in fact a blue boat which had passed Entrance Island and presumably the crew in their jubilance at having safely passed thru Hells Gates failed to notice the leads to the right and neatly ran into a sand bank with about 300mm of water covering. The Magic captain had the right bay and later the electronic charts were found to be adrift by about 1 nautical mile. The blue boat was dragged off the shoal by one of the many “shed boats” seen on our circumnavigation. Meanwhile Magic and her crew continued on into Macquarie Harbour and headed south for Farm Cove in anticipation of an early start to traverse the famous Gordon River. Most of the fleet retired to Strahan to replenish their supplies. At the pub.
The next day we headed up the Gordon River to Heritage Landing, the principal destination of the “tourist” charter boats sailing from Strahan. Making our way upstream in the cold rainy climate, synonymous with the west coast, we were passed by one tour boat with a number of celebrating VDL circumnavigators, while we were enjoying morning tea in style- fresh scones, with cream and jam and tea from the silver teapot. At Heritage Landing we found a single 2,000 year old Huon Pine tree with a number of stems which covered an area about the size of half a netball court. Further upstream past Butler Island (made famous by the photograph) we stayed at Warners Landing, the site of the Hydro camp associated with the Gordon below Franklin Scheme of the 70’s and Sir John Falls.
During our stay at Sir John Falls we were introduced to the Wait 10 minute principal by one of the VDL Circumnavigators. If it raining now wait 10 minutes and the weather will change, either for the better of worse. By now the weather was becoming more inclement (typical west coast) and we were forced into wet weather gear and winter thermals. The Magic crew dinghied up the Gordon over several shallow rapids to reach the Franklin. The topography in both rivers was very different. The Gordon is generally steep sided and fast flowing while the Franklin is more gently sloping with limestone outcrops and lots of pools and riffles. Several days were spent exploring the pristine forests along the Gordon River before making our way downstream to Strahan to rendezvous with the rest of the Fleet.
While making our way downstream a storm warning was issued for all SW Tasmanian waters and the Magic crew sheltered by dropping the anchor mid river, reversing into a tiny tributary of the Gordon and mooring the stern to trees on both banks . While Magic managed to stay out of the wind a fair bit of tree fell about on the ship.
At Strahan a big shindig had been organised in the local pub and the crew of Magic were going to strut there stuff. So dressed to the nines the Captain attired in his Vicars outfit complete with beanbag belly and afro wig masquerading as (Father Bendover) and the Wench disguised as Marcel Marso they embarked on another steep learning curve – what was your name again? Entertaining the patrons and locals alike.
February 6
A 3am start- (yes in the morning) another thing the Captain has discovered about the Wench is that she doesn’t do mornings. Our days sailing mostly light nor’ wester takes us to Port Davy only accessible via boat, small air craft or foot. By 5pm we are in sight of Cape St Vincent and the Western Pyramids and we have another change in the weather. The predicted westerly arrives with a vengeance (you don’t want to know how much) “Galley Closed” and we are almost instantly surfing down steep waves.
The # 3 as the perfect sail and we appeared to be catching the rest of the fleet most of who were motoring. As the light was failing fast we followed an S & S 34 behind Breaksea Islands into the main channel leading to Bathurst Harbour. Once again the furling gear on the genoa failed us and we were heading east with quite a bit of air behind us. Fortunately the water was calm as we approached Schooner Cove and flew around the corner to discover almost the whole fleet anchored in the dark. Weaving our Magic thru the crowd was both exhilarating and fearful (heart in mouth kinda fearful) they enjoyed seeing us come to anchor under sail 2 boat lengths from the steep side of the cove.
Ganghook and the Wench spent the next few days climbing mountains and exploring the wilderness of Port Davey, the Narrows, Bathurst Harbour observing the fantastic views of this wonderful area. This spectacular park has been made famous by the King family and especially Deny King who lived at the end of Melaleuca inlet from the 1930’s mining tin and observing nature in all its glories. Deny, who died in 1991, was well known round the world for his bird observations and was the first to observe the decline of a rare grass parrot the Orange Bellied Parrot which bred in the SW and west coast. Deny believed that their decline was associated with reduced burning regime of the area. The Magic crew were so impressed with the rugged beauty of the SW that we have decided to return to Port Davey in a later voyage. Someone else described Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour as being a grey wet version of the Kimberley. During our stay we discovered the Wench does bush and climbing too. (Under great sufferance – the lure of a new pair of shoes dangling at the end of a long stick and BYO lolly provisions.)
Friday 11 February
Early start again to sail to Recherche Bay, named and discovered by Baudin in his explorations around Tasmania and the Great Australian Bight. A majestic and beautiful start to the day sailing thru huge rocky outcrops and islands with a nice little NW breeze pushing Magic around SW Cape (our second cape) where the cray fisherman were laying pots all higgledy piggledy. We flew past Maatsuyker Island on a reach and as we were keen to keep going we ended the day’s sail anchored off Southport and tucked into lamb shanks with a bottle of Wignall’s cabernet.
The next day we followed a small gauge railway around Hastings Bay and for the first time in weeks observed powerlines and cars on a made road. It was clear that opportunities for plundering and the other good bits were rapidly approaching.
Off to Port Cygnet in the Huon estuary later in the morning for a BBQ dinner at the local yacht club. A great spread was put on by the club and we retired in good time to rise early to check out the local scene. The wench discovered excellent blackberries on the road to town and after a short time we had sufficient for several meals and jam as well. Meanwhile, Ganghook searching the shores for low tide offerings discovered oysters and heaps of them. Later, after eating a hearty breakfast of fresh shucked oysters followed by, you guessed it, blackberries we spent the rest of the day exploring Port Cygnet.
To complete the native repast, the wench discovered a bakery with camembert and chicken pies and after hungrily wolfing one down she announced to all those who would listen that they were the BEST PIES IN THE WHOLE WIDE WORLD. A big call.
St Valentines Day dawned clear and sunny with light winds. Magic dropped the mooring and said goodbye to her friends in Port Cygnet we decided to head for the northern area of the D’Entrecasteaux Channel and explore fishing opportunities adjacent to Bruny Island. We anchored in Missionary Bay (for some quaint reason the locals call this Position Bay) and caught several flathead, before moving north to Barnes Bay and yet another BBQ at the BB Aquatic Club. What a great night the club put on.
As the bay was crowded with other anchored vessels and was exceptionally calm we decided to raft up with 2 others on a (3 tonne) mooring. Following the BBQ we quietly slipped away so that we could arise early to take in the scenery. At 3 am a sudden, strong south westerly change woke us. Magic was bucking and weaving against her neighbour and likely to break something. With the wench adorned in her Poo pj’s and in 30 knots of wind and rain we let go the neighbour and motored into the confusion and darkness. Boats were going everywhere. There were lights, shouting and some poor soul was still singing off the affects of the red wine.
We eventually anchored in the lee of the opposite shore after we worked out where we were. The wench was soaked and frozen and Ganghook had to administer first aid in the form of hot Milo laced with brandy before getting into bed with the patient to provide body warmth to stop the onset of hypothermia. We surveyed the damage the next morning an apart from a few scratches Magic came out of it well.
On 15 February the Magic crew motor-sailed out of the channel into the Derwent River and made our way to the Royal Yacht Club of Tasmania who were to be our hosts for the next 10 days, where a hectic round of maintenance was planned for Magic followed by a short holiday back to Perth. This cruising for a living is Tuff Stuff.
A special thanks to all of our friends in Tasmania who generously provided vehicles, accommodation, meals, and wonderful entertainment while we were there.
Recommended reading: King of the Wilderness The Life of Deny King; by Christobel Mattingley
Storm & Silence; A Portrait of the Tasman Sea, by Joe Cannon