Message in a Bottle - Magic in Cape Country December 2004

Message in a Bottle – Part 7
Magic in Cape Country
Ah me little ‘arties, it’s Christmas time and the Captain and his wench are here to bid you a hearty Christmas and a Tankard of best ale of a New Year. The next searingly exciting version of Message in a Bottle is coming your way. As it is the season to be jolly, especially for pirates, as well as those left to carry the burden of working, we suggest you get yourself a nice little champers darlings, to help you follow our little adventure.
You may remember that we left you at Lizard Island promising to reveal all sorts of nonsense about natives and undiscovered bodies. Before we get to that dear reader, we must tell you about our visit to the Cod Hole on the reef and tracing Cooks footsteps to the top of what is quaintly called Cook’s Look. The Cod Hole was a fantastic experience for us both and to amplify our pleasure we took hostages from Lizard Island. David and Kris our two comrades in arms from Taipan.
The variety and diversity of fish on the reef were a sight to behold. We spent hours snorkelling around the edge of the reef and saw hundreds of colourful fish and coral in all shapes and sizes, from double headed Maori wrasse` 3 feet long potato cod bigger than Daun, to delightful little clown fish just like Nemo. The captain took his underwater camera and managed to get a couple of photos of water with unrecognisable fish a looong way away, as well a snaps of his hand, the bottom of the boat and other miscellaneous objects. We were lucky as the day before we had visited the Lizard Island GBR research station which provided us with the truth about the dreaded crown of thorns star fish, of which there were none at the cod hole or at Lizard. Our snorkelling trip to the cod hole was preceded by a swim around the clam garden adjacent to the anchorage on Lizard. This well named coral patch is home to dozens of giant clams in all the colours of the rainbows. Some of the shells were more than a metre in length and looked to be in excellent condition. Not that we knew what clam tasted like but, we do know that Captain Jim’s crew consumed plenty with turtle as a side dish.
The following day we climbed to the top of Cook’s Look, the 350 metre peak on the north end of the island to see what there was to see. The view was amazing and although Jim was there for some hours you will be pleased to hear that he only left his foot prints and neglected to sign the visitors book.
Now cast your mind back a few days to our promise of bodies and fierce natives. During our passage from the tip of Cape York to Lizard Island we discovered Forbes and Morris Island. Forbes was our first truly tropical island with clear warm water, high peaks, colourful coral and waving coconut palms. We arrived at sunset and rowed to the shore to celebrate our success under a palm. The next day the buxom wench and Capt Ganghook explored the whole island and found the remains of a farm house, a well and engine shed. A grave on the island from 1923 marks the passage of time and the dashed hopes of a young man. The windward side of this National Park island was cluttered with enough plastic bottles, rubber thongs, and other detritus including an old fridge washed up on the shore to keep Ian Kiernan, our Clean Up Oz guru, going for a few weeks. We reluctantly left Forbes for our next anchorage on our passage south.
Morris Island was a must stop for us as it harboured hundreds of cooing Torres Strait Pigeons which commute daily to the mainland to feed, returning in waves at dusk. The island itself was small and we took possession after a mere 30 minutes circumnavigation. During our walk we discovered turtle tracks, small light spotted rays in the shallows, a number of small coconut palms, thousands of birds from the ubiquitous pigeon to a pair of white bellied sea eagles and a flock of pelicans, a grave marked with dozens of coloured plastic bottles, bouys and some anchor chain. All the while the stout heart of the island protected by a fearsome species of plant with very spiky leaves. Even the dogged nesting turtle had trouble penetrating the barrier presented by this piercing plant. We snorkelled with the last of the sunlight and repaired to the beach for a sundowner and pondered on the origin of the plant species.
After the complete tour of Lizard Island, Magic in convoy with Taipan, headed for Cooktown where we did what all good sailors do. We ate at the RSL and said “never again”. Amazing scenes of the ground covered with ripe mangoes under all the street trees planted by the hundreds last century. We visited the museum and the botanic gardens and found the town still under the spell of Cook who you will recall repaired his ship on the beach after falling foul of Endeavour reef. The museum is a beautiful C19 convent abandoned after WW2 and restored in the 70's with funds from the locals and, wait for it, the Bjelke Peterson government.
With another James Cook book under our arm and we departed Cooktown for east Hope Island where we swam without fear of crocs and enjoyed a sundowner on the beach whilst swapping tales with other passing yachties. The next day we headed for Cape Tribulation, anchored and took a walk around some of the famous rainforest.
From Cape Tribulation to Yorkeys Knob the crews of Magic & Taipan lead by the very handsome yet fearless Captain Ganghook made preparations to plunder the town of Cairns. Their plan was to stealthily stalk the outskirts and scope the surrounding area. Plunder by day, party all night. Seven days at Yorkeys Knob saw the plan come to fruition. A party was assembled, the pirates made their way to the vulnerable town of Cairns, the men folk armed with tape measures and tools headed for the industrial area, all the whilst the wench and her companion made a full blown attack on the city centre, not a hairdresser or shoe store was safe, with wallets flying and handbags swinging the women folk of the crew demanded respect (the kind only money can buy), not a bar or eatery was safe, the unremorseful crew paid no mercy to the Queenslanders. Next, a celebratory trip on the sky rail up to Karundra was enjoyed, the market place and even more shoe stores were held at purse point, the mighty warriors of the two Galleons were now starting to show signs of fatigue the plundering of Cairns and surrounding areas had to come to an end.
The crew of Magic was briefed and the next leg of the voyage had to be made post haste, not a moment to spare, the much publicised rendezvous on the shores of NSW with the sleek sloop “Santana” and the vast fleet bound for the distant city of Hobart was perilously close. The day of reckoning for us was looming. After 14 days and 14 nights the tired and mostly wet crew sailed by Coffs Harbour only 200 mile to go to get to Old Sydney Town. A few stops were made along the way, Nare Inlet on Hook Island – Whitsundays, Hamilton Island, Brampton Island then Bundaberg, spirits were raised and the voyage continued. From Bundaberg further south to Hervey Bay a sail with the wind abaft the beam thru the Great Sandy Straight passed Fraser Island to Tin Can Bay. Here the battle with the wind and currents hindered the passage over the Wide Bay Bar, 3 metre swells, adverse winds and rain fell upon the crew, (visualise Scuffy the Tug Boat in a washing machine). Teeth were clenched harnesses were tethered the crew were on full alert. Once over the bar Magic and her crew withstood the trials of squally winds, thunder and lightning mixed with heavy rain, sanctuary was taken at Iluka NSW – very quaint little town, - ready for the taking but that will come for another day. The ship must press on.
Now me ‘arties ‘tis the end of this 7th edition of Message in a Bottle and Christmas time is nigh. Magic is approaching Pittwater, her home for a couple of weeks while the cap’n goes racing and the wench discovers what Tassie shops have to offer. After which we is all off to Tassie for another little adventure all round the isle. Happy Christmas and a jolly New Year to you all. Have an exciting and safe break.
Stay tuned for the next Message in Bottle coming to your email address shortly. Incidentally, in keeping with the latest trends in privacy legislation we have sold all of your email addresses to a portly gentleman with dark glasses and white shoes. He assures us that it will be “OK mate, no worries” so you should shortly receive, what was it Brooksy, oh I cannot remember.
Unfortunately, while all the cards and letters in our mail bag keep coming we will keep writing. I think we have received at least one. Anyhow, those of you who wish to no longer receive Message in a Bottle, change your address. Go on just try it. We will track you down. No matter where.
Appy Christmas and a Jolly New Year. HO HO HO
The Capt’n and crew of the good ship Magic
Ganghook and The Wench