Message in a Bottle - Magic at the Top End September 2004

Magic at the Top End
Ok. Here we go, take 5 mins to make your coffee, then sit back relax and transport yourself on board the good ship “Magic”


13th September 2004
Just when you thought it was safe to enter the water, “the crew are back”. Darwin oh what an oasis, the trees are weighed down with Mango’s, the air is filled with the sweet perfume of Frangipannis and the folk are friendly. Not to mention the Cullen Bay Marina full of restaurants, laundromats and marine shops, hmmm shear luxury, the gallery wench went on strike, the Captain a shopping frenzy.
The crew enjoyed their day of shore leave, 1st stop a 8 km cycle on our trusty treddleys to the local swimming pool, where we enjoyed much dreamt of work out, this was the very 1st of our commitments we purchased a 30 swim pass – you know that that means ? Yup an 8km ride there and back and a 1.5 km swim everyday before the day even begins. Next the crew visit the local ale houses and feasting at the Mindell Beach Markets. Alas, alak, there is work to be done, it’s all hands on deck, Magic is going on the hard. Ganghook has given the orders the ship must to be scrubbed and anti-fouled, a larger skin fitting is to be put on the hull, a new beaut (deck wash – to aid in the clean up after all the mighty fish have been caught) is to be fitted. The freezer is to be rewired and moved to midships her stern is too heavy, (it’s a girl thing). The list is endless; the old sea dog denies the crew more shore leave until the work is done. Bernard’s future on the good ship is in jeopardy, he has to be removed and put through his paces at the local marine electronics workshop. The anchor winch is destined for a watery grave if a replacement can be begged borrowed or stolen. All the while, the crew wait in earnest for the good ship Taipan (which has been on a scouting party) to join them and make ready for the next leg of the journey.
20th September
Tempers are fraying. The workmen have refused to come onto the boat due to some sort of Darwin time thing, (NT Time – Not now Not tomorrow). Low spirited wasters the lot of them. Slowly we get the skilled artisans of the town to knuckle down to the job at hand. Chris the electrician orders a new alternator and “smart” regulator for delivery and fitting next week. Bob the electronics “expert” is working hard on a million other things and will have time tomorrow at 4 pm or “…I’ll call you, promise”. Another promise gone. The anchor winch drive motor has had a drink of the saline stuff and is stuffed, says Ian the auto lekky. I order another with an 11mm drive from Brisbane by “overnight” on Wednesday. A nice new 14mm drive motor arrives on the following Monday. Run around like a blue assed fly to find a local turner who does the job and Ian fits it all back together again with new cables. Tuesday is fitting day. Anchor winch, alternator, watermaker, and even Bob of the false promises has the new rudder sensor for Bernard. The Full Monty. Suddenly, everything works. For a while anyway, you know boats.
24th September
The work is done; the crew take a well earned break, a bus tour to Litchfield National Park. 1st stop is the Termite Mounds, to view the terrible awe that a few million ants can wreak on tree and grasslands. Buttressed castles and magnetic mounds as well as the odd meat ant pile abound on the flood plains.
Next stop to the Wangi falls where we are to have lunch and a nice gentle swim in the hot and cold torrid water falls. A well trod path awaits us to this natural feature and suddenly we are among the tourists. Swaggering Germans, pale Pommies, blond Hollanders and a million others rub shoulders with the dinki di’s in the water. We find a small deep pool a short climb up the slope and have a number of instant friends. A young bloke with long platted hair (maybe he has been to Bali) dives into the big pool and it’s on for young and old. His mates all have to have a go as well.
Lunch was magnificent. Prawns, smoked salmon, garden salad with rocket, fresh bread, shaved turkey and ham and more prawns. After lunch we drove to Florence Falls which is a spectacular leap from the top into deep, deep water. Here there are the usual hundreds clicking away with us. Oohing and ahhing at the clarity of the water even though the toilets are a mile away….. Later at Buley Cascades we cooled down from the exertions of lunch and Florence falls before heading for Adelaide River the home of the smiling crocodile. There is no doubt in my mind these creatures are killers and they all should be put down at birth. Forget about natural systems, and food chains. We know they are at the top. Look how they smile when presented with a hunk of Buff in a bit of string.
Homeward bound after a fantastic day to sunset champagne over Fanny Bay with the remainder of the prawns that we didn’t eat at lunchtime. The punishment is now worse than the crime. Eat up me hearties and we are driven back to the Marina. The Marina full of beckoning cafes and restraunts. Not tonight Charlie Brown.
Our next mission was to stake out the Military Museum, what an eye opener; we had no Idea Darwin had been the recipient of so many bombing raids, with such little defence. Up and onward we move through the town, to Parliament House and the library, then from there a little spiritual healing at the Chinese Temple, so ornate and well I guess one could say “original” A lot of dust. After some soul searching we moved onto the NT Museum and Art Gallery which is full of aboriginal art - so much talent – so little recognition. The Maritime display was wonderful in its breadth of displayed craft from the region and a very educational experience. There is a vast array of different sized Indonesian fishing boats all very crudely built, but nevertheless did the job. Magic looks like a regular Liner in comparison.
After such a big day out the weary crew make for the closest watering hole – “The Ducks Nuts” cold beer and the blues, the Buxom Wench was so inspired, a Harmonica was purchased and a promise, nay threat of private concerts onboard Magic was declared. To answer the challenge by the Wench the Captain decided he could no longer put off playing the clarinet, an instrument he had long admired the sounds of so promptly embarked on a mission to find a suitable instrument. Can you imagine them both together?
The Captain and his Wench are delighted when they met up with old sea fairing chums from Kalbarri, Mike & Linda Moore. Much food and wine is shared at the Yacht Club and stories are swapped, after which Mike & Linda head of to explore Kakadu. Meanwhile the Magic crew along with Taipan make ready for their departure, provisions are loaded the crews are loaded and the spirits are high, we are heading out to the wild blue yonder.
2nd October
And we’re of and racing, the two mighty galleons sail of into the sunset, a cruise down the Adelaide River on route to Cape Don. The day was calm not a breath of air only the haunting sounds of the Buxom Wench’s harmonica could be heard, all is well in the world. Or is it? Suddenly as we are gliding past Cape Don the pace changes. The seas are a torrent of overfalls and whirlpools and the reefs are beckoning. All hands on deck the sun is setting fast, the tides are rushing past. Magic is going through her paces but no ground is made, the fearless Captain is on the helm, the very brave and talented wench is on the bow (front of the boat – the dangerous bit) eyes are peeled for boondies and shallows, sweat is running. Magic is tossed this way and that the wench hangs on, the captain has gone to battle with the seas, “Carpe Diem” he must seize the day. Finally at 1am the battle fatigued crew drop anchor at Popam Bay and are greeted by an excited and worried crew from Taipan, a midnight feast is had and the night is revisited. Food, wine and finally bed is calling. The crew wake to see yet another day in paradise.
The next leg of our journey takes us to Port Essington, where ruins of the British Victoria Settlement can still be seen. The site was 1st settled in 1839 it was only established for 10 years. Many buildings are still standing the camera was working overtime so much to see, so little to do! By now Taipan and Magic have established a plan – the first catch of the day is the place for dinner, this works well for both the galley wenches, the night meals are alternated between boats and stories are swapped of the days events. Onward we sailed slowly winding our way towards Gove. The anchorages along the way are wonderful, the bays and islands are so welcoming, soft white sandy shores, the vegetation has changed so much as we venture further North/East, it is greener, higher, softer to touch and more verdant. The crews weight anchor for the night at Raragala Island a bonfire is build, hair cuts are had , a swim is enjoyed , oh the cool crystal clear water is so inviting , frolicking on the beach is the life for these little sailors, the BBQ is going off. A lot of talk is had that night as the excitement builds for on the morrow the 2 ships along with Forte are going through “The hole in the wall” before traversing the final 45 miles to Gove.
“Hole in the Wall” – Not ATM, Not Old English Pub, (fast running, very turbulent rushing water way rushing between to small islands around 500m wide) breathtaking stuff.
10th October
Gove” – small Alumina mining and processing town with a population of around 4000, 3999 appear to be indigenous non-workers. Lucky for us we arrived on pension day, the shopping centre was a hive of activity, there is a sign at the entrance of the centre stating “No Drinking No humbugging” This posed a serious problem for the two ships crews, as non of us were sure if we were able to enter, we certainly had been drinking the night before and as for Humbugging we didn’t know if we did that or not, or if indeed we enjoyed it!
We stayed in Gove for 2 days and nights resting up for the next leg of our journey around the Cape – Cape York that is.
While completing our R & R at the Gove yacht club we discovered that the word was out on a prawn trawler in the Gulf. Apparently fresh prawns, bugs, and scallops were available for the first yacht there with supplies of rum and smokes. The race was on. Starting promptly at daybreak, about 10 am, Magic slipped her mooring and headed out of the harbour. Taipan was not far behind. With light and fickle conditions the two ships ghosted down the coast. During the early hours of the morning a rain squall put the cat among the pigeons and both ships wore away to the south. Eventually through the pouring rain the trawler is found and brought to anchor by the gallant Taipan crew who muddle the minds the fishermen with rum and smoke. After much parlaying, the Taipan crew manage to escape with their lives if not their livers, with a seafood feast for both crews.
With the body’s, fridge & freezers fully stocked the convoy continues for 3 long days and 3 even longer nights across the Gulf , a windless Gulf at that, the crew go about there business 3 hour watches are established, the music lessons continue and Magic slowly makes her way to the Queensland coast.
22 October 4am
Land Ahoy! There are distant lights, Seisia; a small community is in sight. The exhausted crew drop anchor for a few hours sleep before stepping foot on Queensland soil. The next morning we moved to a more appropriate anchorage and went ashore with the crew of Taipan who eventually caught up with us after an eventful passage through the shoals to the west of the Cape. We refuelled at the local BP servo and gathered water at the dockside for Taipan. On Friday evening we went to the local fishing club for a BBQ and gathered essential information about the local fishing customs.
25 October
A fresh sou-easter welcomed us to FNQ and blew us to a stop at Escape River, where, with several other sailors, we rested for a few days awaiting a change in the weather. As we entered the river we were “boarded” by a combined force of Qld police, customs, quarantine agents, reps from the GBR Marine Park Authority and a variety of other federal and state agencies mounted astride fast “commando style” aluminium boats powered by twin 90 hp outboards. These groups were launched from a Customs mother ship which was hovering about 5 miles from the river mouth.
While at Escape River we enjoyed black lipped mussels and mangrove jacks on the BBQ. On the third day Magic and Taipan made sail for the south but were blown back into Escape River by a vigorous SE trade wind. We finally broke free of the river on the fourth day and headed for Lizard Island, the pearl of the Barrier Reef and the saviour of Jim Cook’s famous navigation adventures on the Aussie coast, following his grounding on Endeavour Reef. Stay tuned for more fantastic, piratical adventures from Capt Ganghook and the Buxom Wench on Magic. The next episode will detail the confrontation with the natives on Morris Island and the finding of an unexplained body on Forbes Island. Fresh coconuts are now King in Brooksy’s galley. Find out more in the next spell-binding episode of Message in a Bottle available at your local newsagent in December or if you are really lucky by direct subscription to magic.com. Cheers. Crew of Magic.